Atlases – Census 2004 and Geo-historical

One of the more useful TL government web sites is the National Statistics Directorate, otherwise known as “Direccao Nacional de Estatistica” at http://dne.mopf.gov.tl

I have seen a paper copy of the census reports (dated September 2006) which comes in 2 booklets :

Timor-Leste Census of Population and Housing 2004 – Population Projections 2004 – 2050
Timor-Leste Census of Population and Housing 2004 – Atlas

I looked at the first and thought it a bit inpenetrable to anybody but someone keenly interested. The Atlas version contains lots of coloured maps which are easier for me make sense of, and I intend to get myself a copy – as a momento of what things are like here when my own memory fails me one day.

I am not sure when it appeared but an abbreviated (but not readily downloadable) version is now available on the Directorate web site. It reminded me to put acquisition of a copy on the todo list.

Some interesting numbers (from 2004) :

  • Population : total 923,198 ; Dili 173,541 (2010 projected : 1,149,028)
  • 19% of population in Dili (trending upwards rapidly)
  • 103 males per 100 females (but trending lower outside Dili, down to as low as 89)
  • Mean number of people per household : 4.7
  • Median age : 18.3
  • Age distribution is uniformly suggesting high birthrates and high deathrates, the only blip being in males of 25 to 29 years.
  • Agriculture is by far the biggest “employer” with 27% of al families involved in coffee growing
  • Language proficiency in Dili : Tetun 75% ; Indonesian 71% ; Portuguese 19% ; English 12%
  • Illiteracy : Total 54% ; Dili 26%
  • High school graduates : Total 15% ; Dili 38%
  • Fertility rate (babies per woman) : Total 7 (the highest in the world) ; Dili 4.5 (lowest district value in Dili which is still very high)
  • Infant mortality (1st year of birth) : 98 per 1,000 (very high)

A recent acquisition and recent appearance (at the Hotel Timor gift shop) is the “East Timor Geo-Historical Atlas” by Frederic Durand (published by Silkwork Books in 2006). It is an English translation of the French “Timor Lorosa’e, pays au carrefour de l’Asie et du Pacifique” published in 2000. It has some updates but is basically the 2000 version in English. As it has a historic rather than geographical /social emphasis (like say the census), it probably does not suffer too much from this. Locally, it is US$45 which may be a bit pricey but compared to what !

New Presidential Palace

I read yesterday that approval has been given to commence construction on a new Presidential Palace, with work to commence in February.  I admit to confusion on this as the current President works out of very modest premises in Caicoli right next door to the burnt-out “Palace of the Ashes”.

Meanwhile up the hill towards Dare is what I thought was the Presidential Palace – the Portuguese-style “pink building” which was renovated not so long ago but seems rarely used.

So the new plan is to build a Presidential Palace on the heliport facing Comorro Road.  This area is currently being used by Australian military forces, and who have not so long ago, erected a large warehouse in the prime position.

The new palace will be built (and funded ?) by the Chinese government.  This follows the Chinese government funded (and currently under construction) new Timorese Foreign Ministry building and new Chinese Embassy.  This possibly makes the Chinese government the initiator of the 3 biggest building projects in Dili and all (?) with Chinese funding.

Yep, the political environment is a little more complicated than just a forthcoming local election.

Just an aside : one problem that concerns me greatly is the massive effect of environmental problems in China and their impact on China and the rest of the world (northern hemisphere in particular).  It really is a huge problem guys and I can not see things turning around in the near future.  If you worry about leaving a light switch on or not taking your own shopping bag to the supermarket, take a deep breath before reading the following :

http://www.chinadialogue.net 

Dili peacekeepers holiday resort

During the week, the Fretilin party President, Francisco Guterres (more commonly known as Lu-Olo) suggested that foreign military and police were treating their mission here as a holiday by the sea.

Although I can understand that the continued gang violence in the face of the foreign security presence may be frustrating, perhaps a few things need clarification.

The foreign military forces are mainly Australian and New Zealand (and earlier, Malaysian).  These guys are on-duty 24×7 and carry arms at all times according to normal practice.  These guys are not permitted to eat or drink in local establishments, nor do I believe they have any down-time in TL itself.  So these guys are off the hook.

Initially, the police presence was an international contingent of OZ, NZ and Portuguese (perhaps Malaysian) but has now morphed into a UN Police force from numerous countries.  Initially, the police were not allowed out in their down-time but that has been relaxed now.  In the early days when the Portuguese military police were barracked in the Hotel Dili 2000, they were a common sight down at the Cristo Rei beaches.  When most expats had been evacuated, it was pretty obvious but it is a bit harder to detect now that there are a huge number of foreign aid workers here.

But you do get the impression that there are a lot of UN police vehicles moving around not actually doing much.  Someone told me that there are a number of UN police who are not actually police back in their home country.  And for the more professional officers from OZ and NZ, this is known to be a frustration.

The need for information

It appears that this week has seen an increase in gang related violence, particularly in the Bairo Pite area. The official figure for the number of dead is 5 since Thursday last week. I know that a large number of injuries have also been treated. When things are quiet, there is very little helicopter activity. A tell-tale sign of trouble is helicopters circling over trouble spots.

This helicopter activity has been noticeable over the last few days, but I don’t know of any particular incidents. I had heard that about 100 Timorese attempted to get into the OZ military controlled heliport area, seeking a safe place but I don’t know much more than that.

I had heard there was fighting near the tennis courts in Bebonuk yesterday, but again I don’t know any detail. A UN policeman told me there is stuff going on all of the time. He commented about the stupid expats who move around as if nothing is happening. Well, when I look at the UN Security Briefings, I learn next to nothing. How else is one to find out but rely on word of mouth.

On a related matter, while travelling out east, something came to my attention that I had not really ever considered before, but once it got onto my radar screen, I deemed it worthy to note. But outside of Dili, there is no re-broadcasting of Dili radio or television. And no ready access to Dili’s newspapers. Each of the districts appears to have a RTTL (Radio Television Timor Leste) broadcasting antennae (and a Timor Telecom microwave antennae) but the RTTL antennae and associated broadcasting equipment has not been functioning for a couple of years (I recall someone said 3 or 4 years). Many districts have some form of local community radio but I don’t know to what extent it fills up the information vacuum.

What you do see is a smattering of IndoVision satellite dishes. Even in some pretty remote places, you might see this, even if electricity is available for only 3 hours a day. So you can be right up to date with what is happening in the world but be a bit behind on what is really happening here … like a forthcoming election.

Security getting worse again

While I was out of town for a few days, the security situation seemed to get worse. The on-again off-again gang fights seemed to have turned into a full-on conflict. IDP numbers are going up and medical facilities are handling a large number of hand-to-hand combat injuries. I was told at least 5 have died over the last 4 days.

Not being around, I asked many questions regarding where not to go and who is involved etc. A lot of the information is still based on piecing together news from several sources to come up with a personal assessment of things. While looking up the parliamentary pension thing, I came across a site which is the first I am aware of that re-publishes the (now almost daily) UN security briefings reports in historic fullness. The security reports are on the East Timor Legal Information site.

Up until now, I had been looking at the Ministry of Work and Community web site which only gives you the last 2 reports. It also gives a bit of info on other security and humanitarian issues.

The current trouble is an escalation of gang fighting in the Bairo Pite area which has been going on for over a week now. At the end of last week, it seemed to be between the Setia Hati (PSHT) and 77 gangs which have bedded down each side of the road between Ailoklaran and Hudilaran (ie heading south-west from the Vila Verde cathedral). I think it is still the same.

Parliamentary pension bill

I have been out of town for a few days doing a bit of touring around which has been off the agenda for a while. It is a different world out there, and the capital is a long way away.

While away, one of my group casually mentioned that the parliament had passed legislation giving parliamentarians quite extraordinary pension allowances. I had never seen it, so I have since asked a local just when did this happen (3 weeks ago) and how come I had not come across it. Was it on the radio ? No. Was it on the TV ? No. Was it is the Dili papers ? Yes, but on page 5 amongst other government news. It didn’t seem to raise any great concern.

So I look it up on the internet when I got back here. “Lao Hamutuk” seems to be taking up the case and reports that the parliamentarian’s pension bill includes :

A pension for life at 100% of final salary with money for healthcare (both in TL and overseas) and

  • A government house, a government car with fuel, a private secretary, an adviser, two telephones, internet access and a security person.

  • Tax exemption on car imports and building material for private use (for up to two houses)

  • A diplomatic passport and a VIP travel treatment (even when not on an official mission)

  • Two times a year, a paid intercontinental trip with two other people, and more…

Outside of Dili, the generally lower living standards are fairly obvious so it was fairly hard for me to rationalise this smorgasbord of benefits with the living conditions of many Timorese. To be honest, this sort of stuff is why politics turns me off and why I struggle to decide who to talk to – a politician or a car salesman.

The interesting side event to this is that the President has vetoed the bill but if it is handed back a second time, he must either pass it or resign. (This was also new to me.) Then it hits you. The Timorese President has almost no power so comparing the position to George Dubya is misleading. I am no expert in politics or the (or any) constitution but the President’s power seems more like a Queen/Governor-General in the Commonwealth system.

It almost makes me think that this bill was out to test the President’s mettle.

OK, so there might be some politics in this one

It’s hard to blather on about things here without mentioning the forthcoming elections. I am not sure exactly what positions are up for grabs and when things must happen according to the constitution and electoral laws. Mercifully, I have no intention of reading those as bed-time reading.

However, as I understand it, there are presidential (ie President Xanana Gusmao) and parliamentary (ie PM Ramos-Horta) elections which are meant to be conducted before June.

As I had heard it until yesterday, President Xanana does not want to continue as President, but wants to retire to pumpkin growing. A noble pastime, made even nobler if he took up broccoli as well (hint). Then yesterday I read that Xanana may put himself forward as a candidate for the parliament, representing a yet to be announced party. True ? I don’t know.

I have no idea what PM Ramos-Horta intends to do. I think everyone thinks that ex-PM Alkatiri is a shoe-in as the next PM.

Now add some proposed presidential candidates : the head of the Timorese military Taur Matan Ruak (TMR) and the “rebel” Major Alfredo. So the last 3 names I mentioned are people who have possible criminal charges hanging over their heads with respect to last year’s troubles.

That should make for some interesting political (and legal) manoeuvring over the next few months. I hope Xanana has time to publish his favourite pumpkin soup recipe before he is taken up with electoral things. Xanana, happy to do a pumpkin soup cook-off anytime, any place. Winner takes all.

Latest security issues

With the ex-Minister of the Interior, Rogerio Lobato, going to court today to answer charges of conspiracy and arms offences, it has been expected that there may be security issues this week.

A romp around today seemed to indicate that many locals have avoided un-necessary travel.  The queue at the ANZ bank was absent and I take that as my best guide.  (The ATM machine still didn’t work !)  It seemed that 5% of shops were shut for the day and people numbers on the streets were down.
Although it has been referred to as a demonstration, the bits I saw of about 25 trucks full of Lobato supporters suggested more of a rally than a demonstration.  No suggestion of aggro but a hint of a well-organised, stage managed production.  As I didn’t trail around after them, I can say little more than that.

But I did see road closures near the UN military HQ at Camp Phoenix and evidence of a large number of people having consumed water from sealed plastic cups – these were littered in their hundreds on the grass verge outside the Camp.

Some say these rallies will ramp up over the next 3 or 4 days.

Dogs, chooks and Zen

While in Bali, it struck me just how these 3 things pretty much define some of the main differences between Bali and Dili.

Dili dogs are pretty nervous creatures and inclined to defend their territory fairly strongly, which is pretty good since most of them look to be craving a good feed.  The Bali dogs are real laid-back by comparison.  It can be a struggle just to get them to move off the road.  It appears they trust their 2 legged masters not to run over them.  While here, I can’t count the number of times dogs have given me a good tongue lashing and on a couple of occasions, a fair bit of foam.

And the chooks (ie chickens) that run around the streets here are of the most emaciated variety and explain just why most expat purchased chicken is imported from Brazil.  But the Bali variety seem to very hearty animals, stretching right up to the real flash lads on display in little cages.  The best specimens here are of the fighting cock variety.
Bali has lots of Zen but I am struggling to find much of it here in Dili.

The run-in to New Year

Ten days away from the road to Christ Rei and things change.  The Balinese Paradise restaurant has packed up and gone.  It looks like it has been vacant for 6 months.  The “guards” just said the lease finished.

I should have noticed earlier but the GNR (Portuguese military police) have moved out of Hotel Dili 2000 and moved to premises across the road from Camp Phoenix in town.

The old Coolspot night club is still under renovation but getting closer to completion.  It looks like it will be a cut above anything seen anywhere else in Dili.  There is a large open ground floor bar emerging in modern trendoid fashion.

I wouldn’t want to be the US ambassador who once had sweeping views of the sea from the residence.  His/her views are now soiled by a new bus station now taking shape across the road on the seashore.

I could be wrong but it feels like fireworks are the big new thing this year coming into the Christmas/New Year period.