Beach Cafes – I am seeing double

I have finally tried out both of the new Beach Cafe incarnations and pronounce them both winners.  Not only winners, but a perusal of the menus reveals that the menu is exactly the same and the presentation almost exactly the same and they are 100 meters apart.

So which and when ?  The original one is at ground level and has the finer decor in both table settings and surroundings, and even music.

The newer one is one floor up at the Dili Beach Hotel and has the sea view but more utilitarian furnishings.  It is also about 50 cents or $1 cheaper for many items.  Both have the amazingly huge serving sizes and it seems a large number of people take home a doggy bag.

Being a fan of “padh thai”, there is absolutely no way I can get through one at a sitting and invariably I do a doggy bag take-away.

So which one ?  The “Dili Beach Cafe” for lunch or the full moon to take advantage of the sea view (but only if you can get the front tables) and the “Beach Cafe” at dinner or if you want a nice eating environment with a running water feature in the restaurant itself.

Next stop is the new “Route 66″ burger bar just near the front gate at the Landmark Supermarket”.

The great egg shortage

It took two visits to supermarkets plus one trip to a local market to convince me that something was wrong with egg supplies. There are none. A whole city without eggs.

I asked two locals and both said that there had been a huge buy-up for Christmas feasting. One (with a wicked smile on her face) blamed the Portuguese for baking too many cakes.

Basically, the majority of egg demand is supplied from imports as there seems to be no egg farming of sufficient volume in TL. When I asked some expats about their own egg supplies, a common response was disbelief that an agricultural economy had not wound up this sort of egg farming.

Anyway, one of the locals said the next shipment from Singapore or Malaysia (I think), is two weeks away. In general, these imports are significantly cheaper than the OZ equivalent.

A city without eggs for 3 weeks. That first omelette will be a monster.

UPDATE : See my comment below for an update on the egg situation.

Tomatoes

Over the Christmas-New Year period, I was reading the Economist magazine and read an article about the negative aspects of “organic” and “fair-trade” produce.  It argued that supporting these initiatives was actually making the situation worse.  (A gin and a warm afternoon on the porch produced the following.)

In their defence, it must be said that I can not disagree with the assertion that “organic” production requires significantly more land to produce the same quantity of produce.  (More on quality later.)  But I do have some reservations about the assertion that “fair-trade” by giving higher prices to primary producers, encourages them to stay in production when the real problem is over-production.

Now when I look at “fair-trade” as it is applied in the coffee industry here, I see a different picture.  In a perfect world, these “over-producing” farmers would switch overnight into producing something more “valuable”.  They would go to the bank and convince the bank to give them a loan which would start paying them back in (say) 3 years.  They might mortgage their land, do some re-education on their new crop etc. etc.

But what if you don’t own the land (so have no asset), your house is a hut made from palm trees, you only went to school for 2 years when you were a kid and you barely have enough food to eat as it is.  And you have never seen a bank and your government is in no position to help you out.

So “fair-trade” offers you a 5 cents per pound premium on the free market price – hardly a rip-off if this amounts to way less than 1 cent for each coffee in a “free world” coffee shop.  And because it is called “fair-trade”, somebody else markets it that way and actually gets a 20% premium on the final bean price.  So in order to get that 5 cents to the producer, you are probably paying a middleman many times that.

The reality is that the typical coffee producer is low-paid, lowly educated, poorly fed and a totally unworldly part of the supply chain and as a result, is shafted by the big middlemen.  I will guess the banana industry is just the same.  In other words, the Economist argument applies in a “perfect market” – one where the cost of fair entry to that market is closer to equal.

So what’s this gotta do with tomatoes.  This will be subject to a later article, but basically, the tomatoes you buy here in Dili are gnarled unevenly coloured and often soft or split specimens.  They are organic as use of artificial fertilisers is almost unknown here.  They are not products of carefully controlled irrigation systems, not in hot houses and are probably wrenched out of dry scabby soil.  But they taste like real tomatoes.  They are exquisite.  Not the cardboardy equivalents seen now in the western world – products of automated systems, hot houses and controlled temperature warehouses.

One day, I can just imagine western kids getting a taste of a Dili tomato and complaining “yuk, this is not a tomato … it’s not perfectly round … it’s got yukky green bits and some spots … it’s rubbish”.  And to think tomatoes are rejected in the western world if they are not uniform in size, colour, firmness and cardboard taste.

Yeah, lets get rid of those unproductive coffee farmers, the unproductive tomato growers and while we are at it, all those unproductive art galleries and who needs those unproductive musicians who are not in the top 100 chart – they are just dragging down the more efficient artists.

I have nothing against the Economist bringing some of the issues to the table but the full picture would sometimes make it easier for us dumb readers to make our own decisions.  So if I want to pay more for Mexican re-fried beans over ordinary baked beans, I will – presumably because I attain more satisfaction doing so.  And if I want to eat gnarly old mis-shapen tomatoes over the cardboard variety, I will.

Should I respect any dry economic theorist who listens to classical music subsidised by the public purse.  Now that would be a travesty wouldn’t it ?

Beach Cafe lives

I am still rolling over with laughter at the traffic lights post.  Perfect intro for the return of one of my favourite eateries.  The Beach Cafe is back.

It has moved into renovated premises next door in the old Shanghai Hotel.  The menu is the same and the cooks are the same.  Tim takes over from Jimmy as the frontman.

And only 50 metres west in the Dili Beach Hotel, we have a new related eatery called “Dili Beach Cafe”.  I think this is also Burmese and related somehow to the other “Beach Cafe”.

I have been pining since May for the return of the Beach Cafe.  I hope my memory was right.

More Restaurants

It has been around about 2 months I think, but I finally got around to going to “Kampai” restaurant.  It is Filipino and very well presented.  At the top for decor (by Dili standards) and the food is quite good.  Recommended.

Food courses are US$2 to US$3 and you probably need 2 dishes if you have an appetite.  You should get out of the place for under US$10 depending on your drinking requirements.  Beers are the standard Dili price of US$2-50.

Went to the “Erli Sun” restaurant down on the road to Christo Rei recently.  Again, a new restaurant with the best decor in this beach strip of restaurants.  To be honest, I found the menu extremely hard to get my head around but there are some good dishes in the Chinese/Macao/Singaporean mold.  I will go again just to try a few more things.  Just a tip on bar/restaurant design – don’t attempt to install a bar and expect the patrons to sit at stools looking into the kitchen !  Particularly when 90 degrees to the left is a wonderful view of the sea and some pretty good sunsets.

Dangerous Mangoes

Over the last couple of weeks, mangoes have hit the streets in big numbers.  The tree hanging over the back fence had been bulging with ripe fruit until today when some of the local kids got up into it and harvested as many as they could.  They did a lot of shaking and quite a few landed on our side of the fence.  Thanks guys.  I ain’t climbing up into a 15m high mango tree.

Just yesterday, I had been speaking to a volunteer doctor who had told me one of the most common injuries at this time of year is kids who have fallen from mango trees. It is always kids and there are few safety measures put into practice.  At this time of year, there is no lush greenery so wherever you fall, it is hard.

Whereas I am happy to wait for them to fall, when it comes to the potential income hanging up there in the tree, why wait when someone else may nab them first.

I just wish mangoes were easier to eat, instead of being like a slippery bar of soap. But I just lurv mangoes.

Where am I ?

I asked myself this question last weekend after agreeing to move on from a bar to go to a friend’s place for gin and tonics. And when the tonic ran out, agreeing to replace it with vodka AND thinking it was a good idea.

But I am a map sort of guy and when I arrived, I was frustrated by the lack of a good up-to-date map of Dili and key locations. Whenever a new location appears on the scene, its always “its 200 metres west of such and such across from the so and so”. And in reality, it is south-west and 400 metres.

I always like to know where I am (last Saturday excluded) so I have chipped away at working on a landmark locator using Google Earth. I am publishing it for the benefit of the geographically challenged and newbies fresh off the boat. (I’d still like to say it is my baby, so don’t rip it off and call it your own.)

You will find it in my “Other Stuff” section at the top of dili-gence as “Dili via Google Earth” or by going here which are really the same place. I am happy to receive any comments and additions and I will keep it up-to-date. Enjoy … and no jokes about my personal hobbies.

The great custard tart catastrophy

Not that I have actually had one for a while, but the custard tarts at the Hotel Timor cafe are positively orgasmic.  I have been meaning to find out just where I could purchase them in bulk.  Perhaps the hotel kitchen or perhaps some secret bakery in Dili somewhere.

They are Portuguese-style little critters going under the Portuguese title of “pasteis de nata” and “shock horror” are actually imported from … wait for it … Australia.  Apparently, a Portuguese immigrant OZ is making these items and the Hotel Timor is importing them.

If you don’t believe me about how good they are, have a look here :

http://www.mirabilis.ca/archives/002089.html

The coffee report

This year’s coffee harvest is now complete.  Harvest time is usually between May and October (ie the dry season) and unfortunately this year, it coincided with the collapse in law and order.

The biggest coffee producing entity is the “Cooperativa Cafe Timor” which is a true cooperative which complies with fair-trade principles and is an organic producer.  (Note that all coffee in TL is grown au-naturelle and farmers have never been able to afford fertilisers/insecticides anyway.)  Delta Coffee is a Portuguese coffee company which imports Timorese beans for processing back in Portugal, but this year, they elected to give Timor coffee a miss. The other bigger player is Ensul, also Portuguese but who do have processing facilities here in TL.

CCT do not provide coffee to bars or restaurants in Dili.  Many used Delta coffee but with Delta’s decision to skip importation of beans this year, most of the Delta coffee outlets have switched to Ensul coffee.  Personally, I think Delta coffee was superior.  Furthermore, it is a pity that CCT do not supply locally as they probably have the superior quality, 70% of which is purchased by Starbucks.

CCT valiantly tried to carry on its harvesting and processing but were struggling with a severe shortage in labour due to people being too scared to continue on as per normal.  As a result, CCT only processed about two thirds of the volume it should have this year.
About 700 women work in the Dili CCT factory, earning up to about US$7 per day sorting beans in order to meet the standards required by Starbucks.  (US$7 is a high wage by TL standards.)  CCT have declined to move to automatic colour sorting machines because of the effect on this labour force.

Hundreds more work in the growing areas – harvesting, drying and transporting beans.

But isn’t coffee economics wonderful ?  Each cup of TL coffee as sold to Starbucks constitutes about 3 to 3.5 cents of revenue for CCT.

I do have it on good authority that the TL beans supplied to Starbucks are the top shelf article.  They also sell a lower quality bean “Estima” which appears in a blend.  These beans are from lower altitude crops.  The highest quality stuff (from the highest growing altitude) is usually known as Maubisse coffee.

Eat Turkish

Gunaydin,

A new Turkish restaurant (cafe style) has opened directly across the road from the Cold Storage supermarket and 30 metres towards the sea from the ANZ Bank. At the moment, it is doing doner kebabs (at US$6) but the owner (an Australian of Turkish descent) tells me they will be opening a second location soon and will also extend the menu to include pide and my favourite lahmacun.

Cok tesekkur ederim