Nativity Scenes

Every year, nativity scenes pop up at this time. My impression is that they are going up a bit later this year and maybe not quite so many.

In general, families, larger family groups and small neighbourhoods will often construct a nativity scene out of local materials. They will usually have a palm leaf roof and if big enough, provide cover from the rain at this time of the year. The bigger ones are almost like bus shelters in size with the smaller ones with barely enough room for one when raining.

Last year, I promised myself I would do a photo shoot of as many as I could find this year. But the numbers of them seem down and more critically, my digital camera “pointed the toes” * about 2 weeks ago.

I hope to rectify the camera problem by early January and hope enough of the nativity scenes are still intact to make it worthwhile. I suspect the later arrival may be due to the possible targetting of nativity scenes by gangs as a way of getting at their targets. I could be wrong.


* “point the toes” = when dead and lying on one’s back, the toes are pointed upwards.

Other blogs

I originally started “Dili-gence” after an exhaustive and mostly futile search for blogs on Dili that might tell me what to expect, what to bring etc. That was early 2005. Apart from Nick Hobgood’s dive site and fantastic underwater photography, there wasn’t anything of note that I found.

ReefScenes.net – Timor-Leste’s Underwater Wonderland” by Nick Hobgood

A result of the crisis period (let’s say that is May to July), has been an influx of foreign military/police and a resurgence in the foreign aid and foreign volunteer presence. I have found myself reading other blogs more than feeling the need to write much myself.

tumbleweed in timor lorosae” has been around since mid-2005. She is an aid worker who has the odd tale to tell. “Dili-Dallying (2 years in Timor-Leste” has also been around since mid-2005. Both of these have been quiet of late but may be on holidays.
“Nomad Lachy” appeared in May 2006 and I was reading this only last week but it is no longer there at blogspot. She was running the free Pilates classes at Temptations and is into diving. I believe she moved the site somewhere else.

Dutchpickle” provides small picture postcard views of things he/she has encountered. I am going to take a guess “he” is a freelance photographer.

Beyond Teresa” from Lisbon writes mostly in English on whatever takes her fancy. She has some interesting insights into events that paint a little more of the picture of what it is like living here.

On the more serious side, there is the all encompassing academically oriented “re-publish everything you can find about Timor on the internet” site called “east-timor-studies“. Another usually serious blog is “Living Timorously” which sometimes borders on irreverent but always comes up with a different angle on something.

Adventures with flipflops” tells regular tales of the life of a water and sanitation engineer working for an aid agency. Normally, water and sanitation engineers would extract a collective groan but this guy is out amongst it digging wells and basically getting some decent services in place for IDP camps that are looking at a pretty wet future once the wet season takes hold. This guy usually works out of central Dili and that makes it different.

A new one that “east-timor-studies” put me onto is “Rai Ketak“. This is from a Timorese who left here in 2003 and as a result of a 10 week visit in 2006, decided to re-publish earlier writings plus impressions from his recent visit. I still have a fair bit of reading to catch up on with this one. Written in a very personal style (warts and all), it is a valuable contribution for us non-fluent Tetum or Portuguese speakers.

Speaking of Portuguese speakers, one blog which publishes a lot in Portuguese but some English is the “Timor Online – Em directo de Timor-Leste” blog. It re-publishes a lot of Prime Minister’s office press releases, Fretilin party statements, UNMIT press releases, UNMIT security updates and other press articles. It seems to salt a fair bit of political comment on top of all this and I understand the commentary is largely written by Fretilin party supporters.

There will be more (and the non-English ones) and some obvious one that I forgot.

Reading the pig entrails

Last Sunday morning, there was a ceremony in front of the Palacio do Governo where (amongst other things) Timor’s leaders promised to be nice to each other and “bury the hatchet”.  I watched for about an hour but it was pretty hot and a little slow going.

It didn’t seem to stop the boys getting stuck in later in the day and one Timorese working as a UN interpreter was killed.  At 9:30pm, rocks were thrown at the front doors and windows of the Hotel Timor.  Guests were told to turn off lights and keep away from the windows at the front.

One part of the ceremony involved the symbolic killing of a pig.  Probably in deference to the large foreign presence, the actual kill was carried out away from the Palacio but body parts from the pig are presented to various leaders – eyes to those with a vision for the country etc. etc.  At the same time, a “matan dook” (witch doctor) reads the pig entrails.  I understand the reading was not good – maybe the pig ate a bad prawn or something.  Apparently, this means more upheavel.

Then there is the story of a pig giving birth to an elephant (ie a pig with a birth deformity on its head) which is also bad karma.  And stories of the Virgin Mary being seen talking to children.  Another bad sign.

Apparently, this is all bad news.  But to be honest, I think I need another gin to catch up with all this.

Wet Season has arrived

Today and tomorrow are public holidays and a number of expats have chosen to start their Christmas/New Year holidays right now. Meanwhile, for those that stayed there was the opportunity to have a look at a medal presentation for the nation’s independence heroes at Independence Park.

I was occupied doing some domestic repairs so didn’t get to the 2pm start, but went along at about 3:30pm. For the last 3 days, dark clouds have loomed over Dili, thunder has growled a bit but no sign of rain. Today, this all changed and at about 3:45pm, the heavens opened and deposited large quantities of water in quick time for the next 30 minutes. I have seen worse but not for a long time. But it was enough to suspend activities at the medal presentations.

Guests huddled under the limited cover available and a number of more formally dressed guests looked pretty shabby after a soaking. The President remained immaculate in his very smart suit, which he wears very well.

So that was it. The presentations will continue at 10am tomorrow, the gardens have had a good soaking, the dustbowls are now mudbaths, the street drains are blocked as usual, you have to wade through 150mm of water to get to the front gate and the roof at home still leaks.

But it finally rained.

Security Heads-Up

There is still a bit of rough stuff going around town and it doesn’t really help expats when they read about “Street Gangs Running Riot in Dili” in the international press. I was actually on my bicycle when this was happening and didn’t see or hear a thing at the time.

Yes, I know where it happened (Taibesse) but only a very brave expat would roam around that area without good reason.

But I do have a bit of a beef. How is it that so much of the info on events of this nature comes by way of the international media (often a bit over the top) or security reports from various institutions security advisors. It really depends on the insurance exposure of some of these institutions as to the advice given to staff.

My point is that there is no proven source for information on these sort of security incidents. All I want to know is what happened and where – just the facts. Having some “security expert” tell me what I should do (without these facts) does not cut the mustard with me. And I will venture to say that a few others would think the same way.

Yes, there will be some who “need” to be told what to do but if I am told the facts, then it is a lot easier to convince me of the most appropriate response. I know there is pressure not to report on bad news but that does not cut the mustard either.

I want the facts before the tears.

Community Events

It is worth noting that a number of community events have been going on over the last couple of weeks. They continue over the next week and include :

Event Location Date Time
Traditional music, poetry Independence Park 5 Dec 5pm
Contemporary music Independence Park 6 Dec 4pm to 10pm
Traditional music, poetry Independence Park 7 Dec 5pm
Hamuluk Prayer Ceremony Independence Park 7 Dec 6pm
Contemporary music Independence Park 8 Dec 4pm to 10pm
Traditional music, poetry Independence Park 9 Dec 5pm
“Soru Mutu ba Dame” followed by
Open Air Mass by Bishop Ricardo
Palacio do Governo 10 Dec 7:30am to 1pm
Traditional music, poetry Palacio do Governo 10 Dec 6pm

Independence Park is the discretely located park just west of the Motael Church. If you walk past the Motael Church on the beach road heading west, Independence Park is the next street on the left.

The Hamuluk prayer ceremony involves returning weapons to their scabbards, symbolising a return to peace (or something like that). The President will receive the symbolic weapons from the Elders.

I am guessing “Soru Mutu ba Dame” translates to “Peace Rally” (literally “Peace Discussions”).

The local papers will have more details.

Mozambique – a different look

A friend of mine moved to Maputo in Mozambique 3 or 4 years ago and at that time, Timor-Leste had not even entered my radar screen.  We have both had a laugh at ending up in old Portuguese colonies and two with some significant historic links.  A few of the senior politicians here have spent quite a few years in Maputo during Indonesian times.
But I have never heard/seen Mozambique becoming a media issue over anything.  However, my mate has urged me to exercise caution and provided a few security tips that apply in Maputo.  Some of his advice includes :

  • always travel outside work and home in a car with windows up and AC on re-circulate (to prevent the bad guys putting gas into the air vents)
  • if you are on a bike (he assumes motorbike here) carry a machete or pepper spray, if you can get it
  • it is essential to have barred windows on both your workplace and home, with razor wire on surrounding fences if you can get it

From his words, I have always assumed Maputo is a bit rougher than here.  The recently released UNDP’s Human Development Report shows TL in position 142 and Mozambique at 168.  It’s hard to compare some of the figures but TL’s life expectancy of 56 is well ahead of Mozambique’s 42.

But I have never heard my mate express a desire to leave Maputo, nor have I expressed a desire to leave here – yet.

It’s not over yet

You could be forgiven for thinking that last week’s peace rallies and security forces reconciliation meant that things were on the improve. Well, there were 4 people killed in Ermera last week and 10 houses burnt to the ground (although I heard alternative reports of 100 houses).

Of course, that was not in Dili but about 30kms into the hills. The UN police do not operate outside Dili but may well do so soon.

Reports are coming in of more trouble over the weekend with at least one Timorese killed in the Comorro area. One of the NGO aid groups has also had problems with staff being detained (not by police) and staff going missing.

Now, I wasn’t the only person to say this, but it was only a matter of time before an expat got seriously injured. No-one knew how, where or under what circumstances this would happen but it has happened now. A Brazilian missionary (although the rumour mill had reported “doctor” and another “NGO worker”) was killed yesterday near the National Hospital.

I have no doubt this one event will ramp up security measures required of expats living and working here, most who have adapted to the security situation over the last month or two. (I’ve got a slow leak in a bicycle tyre anyway.)

I should point out that the National Hospital and Comorro areas are known hot spots and I keep well clear of these areas.

I should also note that the Portuguese press were onto this well before the English press were onto it. If you are fluent in Portuguese (or can nut your way through an online translation) a good site to get the latest Portuguese leaning on things is the blog at : http://timor-online.blogspot.com

You will also notice mention of the head of the military (Brigadier-General Taur Matan Ruak) as a possible candidate for the presidency. I guess that means he is Portugal’s choice, assuming President Xanana retires next year.

The army/police reconciliation ceremony

After several days of peace rallies and the like, this afternoon a reconciliation parade was held outside the Palacio do Governo. I will leave it up to the press boys to get the details correct but I think it was the latest incarnation of the F-FDTL (ie army) and the PNTL (ie the police) on parade in front of the PM, President and many other invited guests.

From my more modest position amongst the riff-raff, I could not hear a thing from the sound system until the march off at the end – more later.

From what I could tell there must have been about 200 police and maybe 400 military lined up. It included the military in fatigues and green berets, some other military in khaki, the ordinary police and the military police. The UN police and international military kept right away from it all and concentrated on manning the surrounding roads. Onlookers like myself remained separated by about 100 metres from the activities and I estimate the total onlookers at no more than 200.

As the police and military were in a formation about 4 deep, they stretched about 200 metres across the front of the Palacio and I would guess those on the fringes would have heard little more than I did.

After half an hour of speeches, a few of the police and military started to tire (like me) but after about an hour, a group of Timorese started handing out flowers to the army/police formation. Every one of them ended up with either a flower or in some cases, a bunch. It certainly was strange seeing the boys packing a flower instead of a weapon.  Then an order was given and they all wheeled right (to the west). The recorded music boomed out loud and clear as they marched off to the western end then wheeled around to depart from the eastern end.

I think it was only appropriate that 2 groups who had been at loggerheads several months earlier should march out carrying flowers to the strains of the Monty Python Flying Circus theme music. They were all smiling and so was I.

The Peace Rally

For once, I was in the right place to see the Peace Rally held yesterday.  Initially, my defence system went into alert mode but the peace banners (in the local language Tetum) alleviated that somewhat.  AFP have reported on this but I am just adding my bit because I was there.

Basically, the rally appeared to concentrate on doing laps of the Palacio do Governo.  Participants were 99.9% male and aged between 15 and 25 and a fair bit of adrenalin was flowing.  It was not a calm sedate love-in, but more of a rock concert feel.  It was boisterous but I saw no trouble.
Many of the participants were loaded onto and hanging off vehicles in a rather risky fashion.  I saw one utility vehicle loaded with about 20 rallyers, lose a few as he decided to slam his foot on the accelerator.  About 4 of them fell off onto the road at a speed that would have had me spending the rest of the day in sick bay.  The driver was not booked for speeding or overloading.