As far as I can tell, both Landmark and Lita supermarkets are now operating at normal stock levels. Opening times are restricted to daylight hours, but apart from yogurt, it all seems normal to me inside the stores themselves.

Landmark seems to have the added benefit of Malaysian troops using their front carpark as secure parking for their military vehicles. Lita store has no more fruit and veg operators across the road. The tell-tale signs of some torched stalls remain as a reminder.

The Colmera shops have rebounded into action over the last couple of days and perhaps a key indicator, the first computer shop (Mr.Bram) is now open.

The Sanan Rai restaurant/cafe opened again on Friday and in that general area on the eastern side of the Palacio do Governo, there is almost a bustle again. Bali Sunrise’s new incarnation as Terrace Cafe now actively promotes $6 burgers. The nearby Temptations restaurant/bar features $4 burgers. Is there an assumption that all the new troops in town are burger connoisseurs ? Misplaced for the moment as the boys are all operating dry at the moment and I think are not permitted to eat in local eateries. For the moment, it looks like consumption is restricted to soft drinks only.

But it is slightly deceptive. Maybe the expat oriented market is normalising but there is a long way to go for the local market. Most of the shop owners in central Dili have reasonably secure premises with metal shuttered doors. Very few domestic residences have this sort of security and I am still seeing the odd fully-laden truck of people and possessions leave town. The refugee camps show little sign of thinning out.

There has been a light thinning in the ranks of the press. There have been fewer incidents of late, more filler stories but given recent stories of political manipulation of the situation, an expectation that something may happen soon. Or maybe not.

Nevertheless, the body has flabbed up a bit over the last few weeks and a bit of tweaking was required. Despite advice to the contrary, I resumed my exercise regime down by the statue at Cristo Rei. If you want solitude, its the place to be. Of the 6 to 8 seaside restaurants on the way out, only the Paradise restaurant (Balinese) was open and operating as per normal. I couldn’t help noting that they are located right across the road from the Hotel Dili 2001 where the Portuguese military police have accommodated themselves. Heaven help anyone who causes any trouble down there.

I tripped out to see what has become of Becora on the eastern outskirts of Dili. It was the scene of gunfighting between the FDTL and Major Alfredo’s break-away military police and also a lot of east vs. west clashes. Supposedly, it has settled down while Comorro to the west seems to be taking the heat right now.

Most of Becora is a ghost town and the area around the Becora market (and bus station) is a total mess similar to the destruction at Taibessi market a week or so ago. People are moving around but the hustle and bustle that once existed in the area is gone. It seems almost peaceful, only broken by the existence of a roadblock manned by NZ military looking for weapons in vehicles.

The Audian shops were more active than Saturday with perhaps 15 to 20% of shops now open. Cool Storage is operating normally but Lita and Leader remain closed. Someone told me Landmark supermarket is open if you knock. The ANZ bank was operating but little else in Avenida Nicolau Lobato.

I noted that it was the first day in a long time that I did not see plumes of smoke rising from the work of arsonists.

The Taibessi, Becora, Caicoli and Comorro markets are not operating in any normal way but with Taibessi market at least having some operation amongst the ashes. In recent days, fruit and veg sellers have appeared at numerous locations outside houses and in fact, this makes it easier for the shopper as I can buy this stuff much closer to home.

As for accommodation, the exit of residents has been replaced by an influx of the press and foreign military. Naturally, Hotel Timor is full, as is Hotel Dili and presumably Hotel Esplanada. Hotel Dili 2001 down towards Christo Rei has been compulsorily acquired by the Portuguese military police and the Australian Federal Police have taken over most of Timor Lodge Hotel, only leaving some of the long-term residents who are no longer permitted to eat in the hotel restaurant.

On the eating front, the Cafe Brasil and City Cafe are both open, joining the One More Bar and the Crazy Sandwich as the available eateries in that part of town. The Monkey Bar appears to be open based on the blackboard menu out by the roadside. Of course, the secluded Hotel Dili remains the institution that it is and along with the Monkey Bar, 2 of my preferred eateries.

On the esplanade to the west of town, the Castaway Bar is open as usual. The Beach Cafe remains closed but unaffected by any trouble. A smaller restaurant between Castaways and the Dili Beach Hotel was destroyed, suggesting to me specific targetting as no other place has been affected on that stretch of road. I had never been there and can not even remember its name now. The Esplanada Hotel remains open.

The Bali Sunrise is no more. It has now been dismantled and a new Bali Sunrise is now located behind the Palacio do Governo near Alfa Omega next to the University. The old location is finally making way for a new Chinese embassy.

As for the beach road on the eastern side of town, I have not been down there for weeks.

I have had a number of requests from evacuees to comment on whether it is safe to return. All I can do is comment on what I see.

It really depends on where you work, where you live, do you have work (or a role to play) anymore or did you leave stuff in the fridge and your pre-pay electricity is about to run out.

I know some people who do not have a workplace to return to. Others where the entire objective of their original job will now have changed. In the case of many who work in “capacity building”, it may well be a “start again” with years of work down the drain.

For many, the decision is out of their hands and in the hands of the employer.

For those involved in work outside of Dili (perhaps Aileu, Gleno, Ermera and Maubisse excluded), things will barely have changed except for an influx of ITDs from Dili. I am unaware of any trouble elsewhere, however I have heard stories of groups consolidating themselves in the more far-flung places in preparation to assist their brethren in Dili.

It really is a mixed bag. There is no one answer, but I would suggest that anyone thinking that they can just come to “help” to think again. Right now, one more spare prick at a wedding is not what is needed.

Over the weekend, I travelled around Dili including runs (by car) to the airport and around the suburbs.

Since the airport trip, the Comorro area has further deteriorated and I would avoid that trip at the moment. The Comorro Road in the vicinity has been blocked on and off over the last few days.

Elsewhere, it appears things are slowly returning to “normal”, if you call foreign troops and vehicles normal. The base for the foreign troops (and OZ troops) is at the port, while the NZ troops have taken over the nearby ex-Thrifty rent-a-car site next to the Hotel Timor for their base.

It is now not uncommon to hear large military vehicles rumble down the streets and the odd chopper fly over. There was a flurry of chopper activity last night and on some other days, pre-dawn.

On Saturday, there were no open shops in the Colmera shopping area and quite a few “youths” milling around. I was on foot and moved on to the Ministry of Agriculture building (Fomento building). As far as I could tell, the whole place has been looted. People were filing out with desks, filing cabinets, stationery and I had been told that earlier, the more choice items like computers also filed out. Again, I moved on.

There was paper everywhere as little kids were hauling away stacks of printer paper which were breaking open and littering the streets with paper. There was no sign of any foreign troops – I wondered why.

An afternoon drive around revealed about 4 of the normal 54 shops in the Audian shopping street were open. I am told that has further increased since.

As for general damage, I did not see a lot. What damage there was, seemed targetted to me. A local told me a lot of the burnt-out shops were premises owned or run by relatives of the Prime Minister and in one case, by an Indonesian.

In the suburbs, I saw areas near Comorro (ie Fatuhada) with a selection of houses burnt down. I was told the village chief pointed out the houses owned by easterners and it was these that were burnt down.

There is definitely a shift by people to get back to work so that they can earn money to buy food. For many, they may still be going to work from a “refugee camp” and many others have no home to go back to. I am impressed with the apparent acceptance of the situation by many but concede I do not really know just how much the locals are hurting inside.

I am currently trying to find out the source of a news story which suggested that one of the well-known expat bars had burnt down. This came from a friend in OZ who mentioned it was in a news story there. I checked the bar and no problem, so I am baffled where this stuff comes from.

I do know a disco/bar was burnt to the ground on Comorro Road but it is not one frequented by expats.

I read one foreign newspaper piece (no names) where I just happen to know the details and the story I read was one of the worst cases of misinformation and fabrication I have ever seen. I considered a nasty letter to the editor but I believe others more closely affected by it, have already beaten me to it. It was a disgrace to journalism. No wonder relatives keep checking to see if I am alright.

When I came here, I thought I would be spending a relatively quiet and perhaps career-stunting period but I am also no great fan of living in your typical western suburbia.

Dili is now turning into a military town and I presume it is going to be like this for quite some time. I guess there will be a shift in the economy with a few more goods and services directed to the 100s of troops who will be around the place.

For the moment, I believe the troops are operating “dry” but one day, things will be more normal and they will have down-time just like the rest of us.
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The international intervention force (or whatever it is called – lets call it IIF) has moved its base to the Dili dock area near the Hotel Timor. The many ITDs (I am told internally displaced persons is the correct term, not refugees) who were at the docks have now been moved out. There is a park area across the road and open space on the seafront to the west, stretching down to the Motael church. It remains to be seen just how many will stay in this area and for how long.

The huge numbers of ITDs that lined the access road to the airport have dissipated but it is assumed that the move of the IIF headquarters away from the airport implied a lower level of security.
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There is no doubt that food supply is a problem, even for expats. The expat supermarkets have been closed for nearly a week except for Cool Storage near the ANZ Bank. I believe Lita Store and Leader Supermarket are operating by appointment only.

The ANZ Bank opened on Wednesday.

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As far as my own personal safety is concerned, I had a little moment on Saturday but otherwise have remained clear of any problems. It really depends where you live and the vast majority of expats live slightly apart from the local community (ie hotels, guest-houses, long-term serviced accommodation and the like).

As far as I can tell, expats are NOT a target at all. The press have been inserting themselves quite close to action at times and I don’t believe they have encountered any trouble. But I mean if I were a thug and arsonist, I might get a little annoyed if a camera crew got in the way and I might want want to give them a slap.

A number of expats live amongst the locals and those expats run the risk of collateral damage if a particular area is targetted. Or perhaps, be seen to be taking sides.

Some areas of town have remained untouched. I do not fully understand but I think some areas have very strong local communities and some “vigilante” groups have been strong enough to deter roaming gangs. I was told the Comorro area had such a strong group but it seems that has broken over the last few days.

I have a friend who has operated as per normal, driving between home and work each day without issue apart from one day when he got inquisitive and decided to have a look at Comorro Road. He encountered a small group of machete boys. He stopped, preparing himself to turn around but the lads grinned and waved him through with smiles on their faces. I doubt he will do it again, but I believe that is the current feel out there. Of course, that could all change if there is an incident with any of the troops but I believe they are very well-disciplined.

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I have also spoken to an expat who has been here a while and he says he has had no problems at all and is not worried. He has driven past marauding gangs who have waved and smiled at him while they have been torching houses.

Lets face it, there is not much to do here any more if you are not a military or medical type. You would have thought that the OZ soldiers would have everything under control by now wouldn’t you ?

I had hoped it would be the case, but the situation on the ground is pathetic. There are no police any more – zip, nada. The streets are empty and as far as I can tell, not one single shop open. I know it is Sunday but there is nothing.

I had been told that the only supermarket open was the Cool Storage, so I grabbed the vehicle and headed there. There was no-one on the streets and apart from the large contingent of OZ soldiers around the dock area, I saw no more. The Cool Storage appeared closed but a local ran across the road and indicated that it was open. I knocked on the metal external gate and eventually someone peeked through the hole (presumably to check for face colour) and let me in. I felt like I was sneaking in through the back door of a knock shop.

I assumed the area would be OK as the ANZ bank is just across the road. I intended to buy drinking water but it was all gone. They still had most of the usual items but some shelves were thinning, particularly breakfast cereal (not on my list). The till was not operating and there was a degree of nervousness from the owner/manager.

I did my stuff and high-tailed it home. No problems but it sent a few shivers up my spine. When I got home, I got a swift reality check. Being almost out of bogroll, it was high on the list. It appears I came back with a 6-pack of paper towels.

It now seems clear it is time to seek higher ground in Australia and I will be taking steps to get there once I sort out a few things here. I have been told that the prisons have lost their guards and most likely lead to the release of prisoners. I am not sure what that means but it doesn’t sound any better. Some of the hardier people I know took the Hercules to OZ today. Not too many people to call any more.

I can’t see things improving greatly for a number of days except if you are journalist. For them, this is what they get up in the morning for.

Sorry guys. Been a bit buzy protecting butt for a day and a bit. Was forced (by generally deteriorating situation rather than direct machete threat) to vacate Chez Squatter and seek a safer location.

Left computer running and packed small bag (plus can of baked beans) but returned later when military presence became more visible (minus can of baked beans).

Yesterday morning, I heard a few shots in the distance but otherwise the night was quiet (or I slept through it). However, by 9am dark clouds of smoke appeared in the mid-distance. It think it was somewhere near Vila Verde. The locals in my vicinity were extremely unsettled and some who had held out at home, decided it was also time to go. I received word that it might now be a good idea to move somewhere safer.

Then things started to get rough. It seemed that gangs of machete wielding youths were causing trouble in many places through town. I think the fear in the Timorese was the worst I had seen so far. It appeared to be complete and total lawlessness. By late morning, there were a number of smoke chimneys from houses that had been torched in the Vila Verde/Bairo Pite area.

On the streets, there was no sign of OZ troop vehicles and it was clear that although the C130 transports had shipped in many troops, they were a bit short on vehicles which were on the supply ships.

At lunchtime, the first sign of OZ army vehicles appeared and like magic, there was a huge reduction in fear levels. Many people went home. But until every 2nd street corner has a military vehicle on it, it is unlikely that full confidence will be restored.

Despite the mass evacuation of foreigners, there are still reasonable numbers of foreigners left. One acquaintance dropped around yesterday morning in his vehicle wondering what all the fuss was about. For lunch, another went down and bought pizzas – shorts, sandals, quick trip down to the Castaway Bar. No problem.

You just have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Many people are emailing or texting all sorts of people to inform them whether they are staying or going. I already have numerous “I am in Darwin (or Bali)” emails. And also the email to meet up at a bar for a few beers tonight last night with those I know who have stayed and carried on as usual. I declined as the other half just couldn’t see the point.

I had a coffee at the Hotel Timor cafe yesterday afternoon with a few acquaintances prior to sticking my nose in on Prime Minister Alkatiri’s press conference. I thought I might be about to witness something significant, but no. It appears the government is in full control.

As I walk out past numerous gun-toting foreign troops, I don’t think so.

PS Running out of toilet paper so will be trying a supermarket trip today.

Although the first of the Hercules planes touched down late yesterday afternoon followed soon after by an Australian frigate, last night remained a difficult night.

It is purely a logistical thing. Until the vehicles hit the ground and all the accommodation stuff, it is difficult for the boys to go far in safety, but I guess the first points to protect were the airport and OZ embassy.

This morning, planes were cutting the air for the the first hour or two after dawn. I didn’t hear much until the first reports came in after lunch about the death of a mother and 5 children in a rather gruesome fashion. Those reports had hit the web sites within 2 hours of the bodies being confirmed by 2 Kiwi defence guys. I knew the press were now going to be onto anything that smelt of a story.

I have heard anecdotal evidence that there is probably a fair bit more of this sort of stuff. The Taibesse/Becora area has been the scene of gunfights almost continually for a couple of days. And I heard yesterday that Tibar may have a few problems but with no-one there to report it.

I didn’t know when would be a good time to get out and about again, but I was assured tonight that OZ troops were indeed patroling in central Dili. I playfully thought that they would also protect the supermarkets and a few key bars around town. So yes, I will be getting out tomorrow during daylight, but central Dili only and well clear of the UN Obrigado Barracks.

Basically, the closer you are to the sea, the safer you are likely to be.

Later in the afternoon, UN choppers streaked low over town several times. They sure make a racket when flying low. I was told they were shipping police who had sought refuge there. There was said to be a group of FDTL (army) outside wanting to cause trouble so the UN decided to move the trouble.

Later, the first sign of OZ choppers appeared in the skies. Meanwhile, all day the OZ naval presence was wandering up and down the coast. This evening, there is the rather unusual sound in Dili of aircraft after dark. It appears to be planes coming in and leaving at regular intervals. I suppose this is how one delivers 1300 troops in a hurry.

So I expect tomorrow to be a key positive day from a security point of view. From a political point of view, what a schemozzle.