Please Explain

For the last couple of weeks, there has definitely been an increase in Blackhawk activity (ie helicopters), particularly at night. Apparently, there has been an increase in gang activity and the lads have been getting a bit more belligerent and have been testing the foreign troops and police.

The Comorro/FatuHada area (on the west of town towards the airport) seems to be the main problem spot. But I don’t know much more than that, and little is reported about it in the foreign press. There is a rumour that someone is slipping the lads a few bucks to stir up trouble. If this is true, no-one seems to have any idea what the purpose is but to constantly create an insecure environment and ensure that “refugees” (IDPs) stay in the camps, which is exactly what they are doing.

As far as I can tell, there has been no general movement away from the camps. It is almost the new normality. There are concerns that the secure camps which provide free water, (certainly not the greatest) sanitation, some degree of medical service and free food are far too attractive for a number of people.

There has been talk of stopping the free food in the camps and moving food distribution points to the suburbs but I have seen no evidence of this myself (not that I would even recognise it occuring anyway).

But a couple of nights ago, 10 houses were burnt in the FatuHada area. I think there were a couple of arrests but who knows if that will put anyone off. But yes, the security situation at night-time has definitely deteriorated in certain parts of town, even right next to the OZ defence HQ at the Dili port.

Many think things will bumble along like this until the general election scheduled for May 2007 – that’s 8 more months of bumbling. That is unless some political revelation occurs first.

——————

Besides the complement of OZ and NZ police at the Timor Lodge Hotel, there are still some longer term residents. They have lost their regular bar as the blue shirts have commandeered that. But they have also lost a bit of relaxed lifestyle. Security experts have deemed that the establishment required twin 5m high wire fences topped with razor wire and sun-like security lighting. It looks awful. The banana trees were chopped down too. I do know the blue shirts are not allowed out so is this really what is required to keep the boys inside ? Or have I got this wrong ?

ATM Rage

Its a strange world we live in. As far as I know, there are only 2 ATM machines in Dili for provision of cash. Both are run by Australia/New Zealand’s ANZ bank. One is at the one and only ANZ bank in TL and the other is inside the Leader supermarket.

The only one available outside of business hours is the one at the bank itself. But its out of commission right now. Why ? Someone took to the ATM with a person thumping object and caused fatal damage. I would think every Australian and New Zealander plus numerous other locals and other expats use the ANZ, so the elimination of the only out of hours ATM machine is bad karma for a number of people. Particularly those who can not get to the bank during business hours.

Poor fellow, it is understood he may be on the bank’s security camera. Could be a career down the drain and a huge repair bill. Its the talk of the town but no names have been mentioned.

And now for some restaurant news. The BanThai restaurant now has a new owner and is now known as the Bangkok Thai. The Shanghai restaurant (near Castaways) is undergoing extensive renovation. I do not anyone who has ever eaten at the Shanghai and one acquaintance described it as the only restaurant in town that doesn’t sell food. It is rumoured it will become a hotel-like establishment.

Alas, the Beach Cafe remains closed but intact. I am not the only one who regarded this as a Burmese restaurant at the top of its game. I’ll be reporting on it like a rabid dog until it finally re-opens, which is constantly rumoured.

Dazed and Confused

I have been a bit confused lately. I don’t travel well if I put on weight. Lethargy sets in and inevitably an increase in the susceptibility to the dreaded lurgy. A chest infection and blocked ears probably contributed to the confusion on top of some internet connection difficulties. And “Dili-gence” … who cares about that now anyway ? No more front page news for Dili. Lebanon has some real nasty stuff beyond the capabilities of the boys here … and Darfur, Sri Lanka and Woteveritistan.

You would have thought with a couple of thousand troops and 800 blue shirts, things should be going swimmingly here. But in the last couple of weeks, things have deteriorated. I have seen none of it myself and most of it has occurred at night in the usual places. But today, right outside the OZ Defence Force base in the centre of Dili across the road from the Hotel Timor, I am told it was all on today. The lads from the hills came in to have a good old fashioned punch-up laced with a bit of stainless steel and sharp projectiles.

A bit difficult for the blue shirts to handle when it is right amongst refugee tents and families etc. I just don’t understand it and at the moment, I am not sure anyone I have spoken to does either.

And I am perplexed just why the new Prime Minister is doing a world tour (ie Kuwait) just a matter of weeks after taking control under quite unusual circumstances. I suppose if you don’t have a functioning military or police force, you may as well go and do something else in times like this.

And now for the good news. There is a new burger joint a couple of hundred metres south of the Obrigado Barracks across the road from the old Matadouro (slaughterhouse in Portuguese). There’s enough room to swing a rat but not a cat. The burgers are $2-50 which compares well to the $6 touch at the more expat oriented establishments. There is no grog but I rate the burgers (or should I say the cheese burger I had) fairly high. A very nice crisp lightly toasted bun and well-presented.

Yeah, I know. Another road kilometre to work off this week.

I’ll be back and he was

After a little break, you get to see things afresh. And the very first thing I noticed apart from the nice neat fence separating UNHCR refugee tents and the airport area, was the general tidy-up that has obviously been going on in the streets.

I have seen teams of workers with brand-new wheelbarrows and tools attending to rubbish and vegetation gone wild. It certainly does make a difference in the areas where it has been done.

One not so impressive action has been the re-instatement of the annoying one-way street system. I have yet to meet anyone who supports this system and I suspect the OZ police have merely returned to what was there before. I think we need a real traffic engineer to do some proper traffic counts and computer analysis to prove why it is so annoying.

The other noticeable feature was the number of Timorese who had smiles on their faces and said hello. A big increase on this one.

There is definitely a slow assimilation of the foreign troops/police into the local economy. I know the boys (and girls) are still “dry” but maybe they are now allowed to go shopping. I went to the DVD rental shop (the one with the infinite return policy) and was gob-smacked to be asked for 4 times the normal price. I bargained down to the correct price and left, as I only bargain like this for sport (of course). Naturally, I was offended when also offered a massage with the lot for US$5 while perusing the DVD racks. Did she think I was cheap or something ?

Alas the Monkey Bar is a shadow of its former self as Ross has taken on more lucrative financial endeavours. Its sad that doing laundry for the military pays better than running a bar/restaurant. I think his bar does just burgers now.

My favourite juice bar (Sol e Mar) is open again. There aint no better place to partake of a late afternoon juice under the palm trees looking at the sunset.

And finally, the yogurt is back.

Time for a break

It had to come but it is time for a rest away from Dili. In a way, I don’t want to miss anything but the way things are going at the moment, its hard to know when is a good time.

I guess most expats would have assumed that things would continue being a bit rough as long as the PM held on to his position. But many may have assumed that better times were coming if he resigned. But the longer the PM stayed on, the less comfortable I felt about that conclusion. The increased violence of this week is not a good sign and I (and many others) are back to wondering just where it will all go from here.

Lets see how many kilos I put on in a week.

Out comes the dirty laundry finally

Well the dirt is finally coming out. I always wondered when it would hit the fan. The next couple of days should be interesting.

Then I will start marking some of those press and opinion pieces, some written by politically motivated drones who don’t know shite from clay.

Facts matter … opinions don’t.

No steps forward, 9 steps back

While doing my bit for gastronomic research (ie sampling a burger at the new Terrace Cafe) I got talking to an expat employee who works in the Ministry of Agriculture building. They were pretty much fully functioning back at work so my inquisitiveness got the better of me and I asked if I could come over and see what had happened.

It seems it was a bit of a mixed bag. Some offices completely cleaned out, others partially. The office where I had been invited seemed to be functioning but it was pointed out that a number of desks usually had computers on them. They had cleaned up everything except for one beaten up LCD monitor sitting on a desk. And the stationery etc. storeroom had been trimmed down quite a bit. They thought they were luckier than most.

One of the expat staff was there when looters were walking out with computer gear. He said they only took the newer better gear and left the older stuff. He suspected an inside job. The other feature that has been repeated by others elsewhere is that while the looting is going on, any expat in the vicinity is treated as invisible.

Although the building had been stripped of a lot of computer gear, I did get confirmation that backups of important data were safe and that many expats stored their own important data on laptops which they took with them.

After I left, I went to the Ministry of Education warehouses next door. There are about 4 warehouses about 20 metres wide and 60 metres long. Basically, they have have all been looted and trashed. People are still picking through the remains for printer paper and chalk. Kids are lighting fires in the many tons of paper littering the floors both inside and outside. There were computer parts smashed to bits and torched, a safe lying on its side with door mangled and many tens of thousands of primary school assessment books. And graffiti daubed on the doors.

I later learnt that the Delta coffee warehouse (&/or office) close-by was also looted over the weekend. Many sacks of high quality coffee went along with office gear.

I decided that if if this is what people will do in a country so desperately in need of more widespread education opportunities, then it may well be a long haul out of all this.

As for the burger, I give it a 6 out of 10 but a fail on the soggy chips.

From trash to crap

Over the last week, it seems that many of Dili’s expat residents have started returning. I’d say more than 50% of people I know are back.

Some will just pick up the pieces from where they left off and kick on from there. Some others may not be so fortunate. I know some contract professionals at the Ministry of Agriculture who returned to find their offices trashed, files gone, computers gone, obscene graffiti everywhere. One would hope they do have off-site backups. If not, its a complete start from scratch.

Imagine what you would think if you came back home (after being evacuated to Darwin for 10 days) to find your office trashed with nothing left, your children’s school closed indefinitely and your accommodation compulsorily acquired by foreign peacekeepers. I would take all that as a good hint to retire gracefully.

Not that Dili ever was a great place for expat kids, but it would appear it certainly is not now. The two international schools (that I know of) are closed indefinitely.

But I find some perverted irony in the fact that a country like Timor-Leste which is predominantly an agricultural society, should lose its Ministry of Agriculture almost entirely. Some other government departments have pressed on albeit with vastly reduced numbers.

Now you might think that with all this trouble that the electrical supply might be disrupted. Wrong. It feels like the electricity supply has been the best it has ever been since I have been here. It turns out that courtesy of the significant reduction in demand (now down to 30% of normal), the pressure on the diesel generation system makes it easier. And I am told that the supply system is very simple (no sun-stations or high voltage pylons etc.) and any repairs required are generally quite simple jobs involving wire replacement and perhaps re-erecting a pole.

I guess there are always market opportunities when circumstances like these crop up. I have this feeling that with the influx of foreign peacekeepers, the demand for emptying of septic tanks has increased. Twice in the last week, I have seen full tankers sloshing their way down the street.

Note to file : do not cycle behind a full tanker literally sloshing its way down the street – once was enough.

Conspiracy Theory 101

I don’t do politics. For the life of me, I can’t think like a politician so just can’t come to grips with political blustering and double-speak.

I am doing no better here, but at the moment, it would appear all the action is happening in the political arena – or more accurately, not in the arena at all.

Of late, (courtesy of Google News) I have read quite a few “propositions”. I have heard most of them mentioned here but I have little feel at all for which one or ones may be closer to the mark. I have heard this mentioned a number of times here and can concur : “you just can’t use western logic and assumptions to make conclusions about what has or may happen here”.

Lets try some of the “propositions” (in no particular order) :

  • Prime Minister Alkatiri, either directly or indirectly through the ex-Minister of the Interior Lobato, hired hitmen to rough up and perhaps incapacitate political rivals.
  • The Dili Chamber of Commerce stand to gain an enormous amount from the huge windfall in foreign income from the foreign military presence.
  • The “rebels” are being co-ordinated by President Xanana Gusmao for his own political ends.
  • Australia is stirring up trouble in order to de-stabilise the current government.
  • Prime Minister Alkatiri is using the foreign forces to bolster his position by quelling some of his opposition.
  • Indonesia is stirring up trouble to de-stabilise the current government.
  • Prime Minister Alkatiri is hugely unpopular but will never give up his position based on this unpopularity.
  • The imminent departure of the UN and the associated UN economy was going to leave a huge financial hole which is miraculously now filled again.
  • Recently, I had to explain to an acquaintance that I think it is one thing to say a certain party benefits from a certain course of events but a huge leap to saying they orchestrated it. Similarly, don’t assume malevolent intentions when good old fashioned incompetence and ineptitude is just as valid a factor.

    I am collecting some of the press reports which propose some of these theories (and in some cases, present them as fact) and will mark them out of 10 when the air clears.

    But I got 8 out of 8 in a football tipping pool last week and while I could claim a high degree of prescience, basically it was a week of good guessing. Oh, I forgot … I had no political agendas guiding my football selections.

    Why stay ?

    More than one person whether it be friend or relative has said to me “why stay? … you must be mad”.

    Good question. I am an expat. I am here as a short to medium term foreigner doing their stuff then moving on. While doing this stuff, I have no home to go back to. This is my home. This is where my slippers are ! If I leave, I either stay in a hotel somewhere or bludge off friends or relatives.

    I sat around a couple of days ago with a group of mates shooting the breeze and consuming a few lagers. An attempt was made to solve the world’s problems but we failed. Not one person would rather be anywhere else. We regard we are now safe. We all looked at the setting sun and agreed that it was absolutely bloody fantastic.

    We also agreed the current situation was an absolute bloody shambles.

    I went to a BBQ on the weekend and there certainly was a sense of having been through a very tense period but maybe the worst was over.

    That may be true for the expats, who at the end of the day will always have a free flight out of here, but there is certainly a feeling amongst the locals that it is far from finished and that there are quite a few moves to be made yet. On the weekend, the rumour mill was active again and there was an expectation of an “attack” on Dili on Monday.

    You don’t need to be Einstein to work out that over 1,000 well-trained, well-equipped and well-fed foreign troops supported by choppers, laser-guided weaponry, APCs and a couple of warships are going to make mincemeat of even a few hundred “rebels”. If they really want a stoush, they will want it up in the hills on their turf.

    So a few more people left Dili, the shops are even quieter than last week and nothing happened.