The great custard tart catastrophy

Not that I have actually had one for a while, but the custard tarts at the Hotel Timor cafe are positively orgasmic.  I have been meaning to find out just where I could purchase them in bulk.  Perhaps the hotel kitchen or perhaps some secret bakery in Dili somewhere.

They are Portuguese-style little critters going under the Portuguese title of “pasteis de nata” and “shock horror” are actually imported from … wait for it … Australia.  Apparently, a Portuguese immigrant OZ is making these items and the Hotel Timor is importing them.

If you don’t believe me about how good they are, have a look here :

http://www.mirabilis.ca/archives/002089.html

It’s not over yet

You could be forgiven for thinking that last week’s peace rallies and security forces reconciliation meant that things were on the improve. Well, there were 4 people killed in Ermera last week and 10 houses burnt to the ground (although I heard alternative reports of 100 houses).

Of course, that was not in Dili but about 30kms into the hills. The UN police do not operate outside Dili but may well do so soon.

Reports are coming in of more trouble over the weekend with at least one Timorese killed in the Comorro area. One of the NGO aid groups has also had problems with staff being detained (not by police) and staff going missing.

Now, I wasn’t the only person to say this, but it was only a matter of time before an expat got seriously injured. No-one knew how, where or under what circumstances this would happen but it has happened now. A Brazilian missionary (although the rumour mill had reported “doctor” and another “NGO worker”) was killed yesterday near the National Hospital.

I have no doubt this one event will ramp up security measures required of expats living and working here, most who have adapted to the security situation over the last month or two. (I’ve got a slow leak in a bicycle tyre anyway.)

I should point out that the National Hospital and Comorro areas are known hot spots and I keep well clear of these areas.

I should also note that the Portuguese press were onto this well before the English press were onto it. If you are fluent in Portuguese (or can nut your way through an online translation) a good site to get the latest Portuguese leaning on things is the blog at : http://timor-online.blogspot.com

You will also notice mention of the head of the military (Brigadier-General Taur Matan Ruak) as a possible candidate for the presidency. I guess that means he is Portugal’s choice, assuming President Xanana retires next year.

The coffee report

This year’s coffee harvest is now complete.  Harvest time is usually between May and October (ie the dry season) and unfortunately this year, it coincided with the collapse in law and order.

The biggest coffee producing entity is the “Cooperativa Cafe Timor” which is a true cooperative which complies with fair-trade principles and is an organic producer.  (Note that all coffee in TL is grown au-naturelle and farmers have never been able to afford fertilisers/insecticides anyway.)  Delta Coffee is a Portuguese coffee company which imports Timorese beans for processing back in Portugal, but this year, they elected to give Timor coffee a miss. The other bigger player is Ensul, also Portuguese but who do have processing facilities here in TL.

CCT do not provide coffee to bars or restaurants in Dili.  Many used Delta coffee but with Delta’s decision to skip importation of beans this year, most of the Delta coffee outlets have switched to Ensul coffee.  Personally, I think Delta coffee was superior.  Furthermore, it is a pity that CCT do not supply locally as they probably have the superior quality, 70% of which is purchased by Starbucks.

CCT valiantly tried to carry on its harvesting and processing but were struggling with a severe shortage in labour due to people being too scared to continue on as per normal.  As a result, CCT only processed about two thirds of the volume it should have this year.
About 700 women work in the Dili CCT factory, earning up to about US$7 per day sorting beans in order to meet the standards required by Starbucks.  (US$7 is a high wage by TL standards.)  CCT have declined to move to automatic colour sorting machines because of the effect on this labour force.

Hundreds more work in the growing areas – harvesting, drying and transporting beans.

But isn’t coffee economics wonderful ?  Each cup of TL coffee as sold to Starbucks constitutes about 3 to 3.5 cents of revenue for CCT.

I do have it on good authority that the TL beans supplied to Starbucks are the top shelf article.  They also sell a lower quality bean “Estima” which appears in a blend.  These beans are from lower altitude crops.  The highest quality stuff (from the highest growing altitude) is usually known as Maubisse coffee.

Eat Turkish

Gunaydin,

A new Turkish restaurant (cafe style) has opened directly across the road from the Cold Storage supermarket and 30 metres towards the sea from the ANZ Bank. At the moment, it is doing doner kebabs (at US$6) but the owner (an Australian of Turkish descent) tells me they will be opening a second location soon and will also extend the menu to include pide and my favourite lahmacun.

Cok tesekkur ederim

The army/police reconciliation ceremony

After several days of peace rallies and the like, this afternoon a reconciliation parade was held outside the Palacio do Governo. I will leave it up to the press boys to get the details correct but I think it was the latest incarnation of the F-FDTL (ie army) and the PNTL (ie the police) on parade in front of the PM, President and many other invited guests.

From my more modest position amongst the riff-raff, I could not hear a thing from the sound system until the march off at the end – more later.

From what I could tell there must have been about 200 police and maybe 400 military lined up. It included the military in fatigues and green berets, some other military in khaki, the ordinary police and the military police. The UN police and international military kept right away from it all and concentrated on manning the surrounding roads. Onlookers like myself remained separated by about 100 metres from the activities and I estimate the total onlookers at no more than 200.

As the police and military were in a formation about 4 deep, they stretched about 200 metres across the front of the Palacio and I would guess those on the fringes would have heard little more than I did.

After half an hour of speeches, a few of the police and military started to tire (like me) but after about an hour, a group of Timorese started handing out flowers to the army/police formation. Every one of them ended up with either a flower or in some cases, a bunch. It certainly was strange seeing the boys packing a flower instead of a weapon.  Then an order was given and they all wheeled right (to the west). The recorded music boomed out loud and clear as they marched off to the western end then wheeled around to depart from the eastern end.

I think it was only appropriate that 2 groups who had been at loggerheads several months earlier should march out carrying flowers to the strains of the Monty Python Flying Circus theme music. They were all smiling and so was I.

Touch rugby competition 19 November

There will be a touch football competition on Sunday 19 November at Democracy Park commencing at 9:30am.

There will be :

  • Two sides from the AFP
  • Two sides from the NZ military
  • Two sides from the Hash House Harriers
  • One side from the ADF

The competition will be held at Democracy park on the Sunday, It is hoped to mark out two grounds so two games can be played simultaneously. There are two pools of four teams (where an organization eg AFP has two sides they will be in alternate pools).

Pool 1 Pool 2
Delta Company NZ 1 Delta Company NZ 2
Hash House Harriers 1 Hash House Harriers 2
AFP 1 AFP 2
ADF Spare

The two top sides after the round robin games will progress to the semi finals of the trophy comp, the two bottom sides will progress to the semi finals of the bowl competition. Remember it is $5 – registration per player and there will be water, snags and bread. Perhaps a roasted pig for lunch.

ROUND 1 Game No
9:30 AM 1 Delta Company NZ 1 Hash House Harriers 1
2 Delta Company NZ 2 Hash House Harriers 2
10:00 AM 3 AFP 1 ADF
4 AFP 2 Spare
ROUND 2
10:30 AM 5 Delta Company NZ 1 AFP 1
6 Delta Company NZ 2 AFP 2
11:00 AM 7 Hash House Harriers 1 ADF
8 Hash House Harriers 2 Spare
ROUND 3
11:30 AM 9 Delta Company NZ 1 ADF
10 Delta Company NZ 2 Spare
12:00 PM 11 Hash House Harriers 1 AFP 1
12 Hash House Harriers 2 Lime
LUNCHBREAK
2:00:00 PM, 13 Winner Pool 1 Runner Up Pool 2 Semi 1 Cup
14 Winner Pool 2 Runner Up Pool 1 Semi 2 Cup
2:30:00 PM, 15 Loser Pool 1 Third Place Pool 2 Semi 3 Bowl
16 Loser Pool 1 Third Place Pool 2 Semi 4 Bowl
3:00:00 PM 17 Winner of Semi 3 Winner of Semi 4 Final 1
3:30:00 PM 18 Winner of Semi 1 Winner of Semi 2 Final 2

The Peace Rally

For once, I was in the right place to see the Peace Rally held yesterday.  Initially, my defence system went into alert mode but the peace banners (in the local language Tetum) alleviated that somewhat.  AFP have reported on this but I am just adding my bit because I was there.

Basically, the rally appeared to concentrate on doing laps of the Palacio do Governo.  Participants were 99.9% male and aged between 15 and 25 and a fair bit of adrenalin was flowing.  It was not a calm sedate love-in, but more of a rock concert feel.  It was boisterous but I saw no trouble.
Many of the participants were loaded onto and hanging off vehicles in a rather risky fashion.  I saw one utility vehicle loaded with about 20 rallyers, lose a few as he decided to slam his foot on the accelerator.  About 4 of them fell off onto the road at a speed that would have had me spending the rest of the day in sick bay.  The driver was not booked for speeding or overloading.

“Guide Post” by email

Edition 3 of “Guide Post” is out. For those that remember, it is the current English language community newspaper published in a form similar to the “Timor Sun”.

It contains social news, the odd re-print of news articles and press releases and lots of advertising.

But this week, I learned that :

  • “vasco da gama” restaurant has a new menu – I already knew that
  • The British Embassy has closed its doors here – I knew that too.
  • Plaza Hotel has internet in all rooms (like Hotel Dili) – also knew that one.
  • Com resort is open again.
  • The property section is getting bigger.
  • But the big one was the full page ad for US$2 per hour internet at 2 Timor Telecom (TT) outlets thus under-cutting all of the internet cafes who have no alternative but to buy bandwidth from TT.

And there is more.

It is now available by email by request to :

guidepostadvertising “”AT”” yahoo “”DOT”” com “”DOT”” au

You will then receive a PDF file of about 2 Mbytes in size so make sure you can actually receive attachments of this size before subscribing.

The First Lady Cup (10km Run)

The 2nd Annual First Lady Cup
Fundraising Challenge

10 Kilometre Run or 5 Kilometre Walk.
Sunday 26th Nov. 8.00am. Start Palacio do Governo.

Entry forms available from and payment made to Castaway Bar, Dili Club, Monkey Bar, Harvey World Travel or UNMIT intranet.

Entry fee is US$5.00 Entries close 24 November 2006. Late entries accepted on the day until 7.00am.

Conduct your own fundraising, individual or office & highest will be presented with the First Lady Cup by First Lady Kirsty on day.

The first 10 to finish will receive a certificate signed by the President Xanana & First Lady Kirsty.

Proceeds of all fundraising activities must be received by 24 November 2006.

Start from the ‘Palacio do Governo’ (GPA) 8.00am & continue along the Beach Road to near ‘Cazbar’ and back to the GPA.

Free printed T-shirts on the day to the first 500 entries.

Food available & live entertainment following the Run/Walk opposite the ‘Palacio do Governo’.

Free give-aways distributed during the event.

Further info : Daryl Mills (723 2015) or Trevor Parris (723 6476)
Proceeds to Alola Foundation & Rotary International.

A PDF file of the advertising flier and an entry form is available here

Power struggles

There has always been power cuts – like x number of times over the weekend.  Its the way it is here.  If you are an expat and you do not have a generator servicing your work or home, it would be driving you crazy at the moment.

If you do have a generator and it is well-silenced or a distance away, you may not even hear it and only notice a couple of seconds cut before it kicks in.  Or you could have a noisy generator that constantly reminds you of its operation.

Lately, the power cuts have become highly aggravating for those without generator access.  The cuts have been pretty much daily (and usually in prime time of evening) of late and this weekend the worst I have known since my arrival.

My understanding is that sometimes the electrical authority runs out of fuel.   Generation is by 6 diesel generators located at 2 sites (I think) and if they lose one, power cuts are a certainty.  I believe they are one down at the moment but I also thought demand was still only 50% of what it was a year ago.  Questions, questions …

During the troubles of May/June, the streets may have been deserted and security a problem but electricity supply was pretty good.  Demand was down to 30% which I guess made maintenance much easier.

But I know a guy (a long-term expat) who recently had his first child and the nightly cuts drove him insane.  He acquired his own generator but nevertheless complained about paying for an electricity supply that lately has been pretty unreliable.

Some tips :

  • Invest in uninterruptible power supplies (UPS) if you have a computer
  • If re-setting your TV and recording settings on your VCR drives you insane, get a UPS for that too
  • Curse anyone who gives you an electronic clock/radio for your birthday
  • Forget about ever setting the clock on a microwave