Not a good day

Well, what can you say ? News reports suggest that at least 2 people were killed in fighting near the airport. The airport is closed. Blackhawk choppers working all night Tuesday night and a lot of Wednesday – always a key indicator of trouble. Roadblocks setup near the Comorro River bridge severely impacting on movement. Attacks and threats on the Ministry of Education building in another part of town (near the UN Obrigado barracks). Continuing tense atmosphere in the vicinity of the national hospital in the east of town.

You try to piece together the details from various sources as all sorts of people hear slightly different takes on what is happening. Maybe 4 were killed. A friend at one of the medical facilities said 3 deaths occured at their workplace. A shot to the head and a couple of arrows. A lot of the day trying to transport the bodies to the main hospital and/or returning the bodies to the families. The families in a heightened state and angry. Guns carried by civilians now reported as being seen in a number of places.

And you know that after this lot, there will be the inevitable attempts to exact revenge.

This report seems to have distilled most of what I have heard from various sources here :

http://www.smh.com.au/news/world/timor-in-chaos-as-leader-murdered/2006/10/25/1161749189170.html

Today in Baucau, the Timorese army (ie F-FDTL) are holding some sort of public meeting to talk about their response to the recent UN report and may well have a response to yesterday’s events. Some of their command were referred to in the UN report. This meeting will be watched with keen interest as so far, they have kept out of the action and out of Dili.

A quiet Sunday

Sundays are usually fairly quiet.  Most shops are closed and if you see large groups, they are usually going to and from church.  The expat supermarkets are always open and I had decided to do a big shop, mainly as I had run out of breakfast cereal but also because the other half was slaving over the cooktop doing something substantial for dinner.

Mid-afternoon I went to Landmark supermarket and noticed the streets extremely quiet if not deserted.  There were a couple of police vehicles with small crowds around them but otherwise nothing.  I thought something must be “going down” (a phrase often used here) when I saw (& heard) the Blackhawk doing quite small circling in an area of Fatuhada only a couple of hundred metres away.

As is quite common, Landmark could not satisfy the full requirements of the shopping list so it was off to Cold Storage at the other end of town.  Still deathly quiet and I thought “this is just what it was like back in May/June”.  Something feels wrong.

And so it was.  Later in the day, Radio Australia reported trouble following the discovery of 2 human torsos in the Comorro market area.  RA reported that 100 foreign police were called in.  Even later in the day, I noticed very slow response when texting on my mobile – 20 minutes before actual delivery of messages.  This was reminiscent of the mobile phone meltdown several months back when everyone was sharing the news on whats going on.

So even though things are generally under control, the tensions in the community are incredibly high and one wonders what can be done to bring it down.  Certainly not  job creation for the major construction works going on in town – landscaping work in the carpark and on the beachfront outside the Palacio do Governo.

Job creation

Yesterday afternoon, I was visiting a colleague at his residence which is a 1 bedroom unit in a bit of a mish-mash of buildings all contained within a walled compound.

There are quite a few walled compounds in Dili but most are just a fence with a gate and one or two guards. Some may have razor wire or equivalent but this one is just normal fences. (Like septic tank cleaning services, razor wire supplies are a booming industry here.) The compound has guards, gardeners and room cleaning staff like a serviced apartment and rents to foreigners.

Anyway, apart from the consequences of the recent UN report, we were actually discussing job creation and how this was perhaps the biggest reason for much of the recent trouble. As we spoke, there was a commotion outside over the fence. The guards and other staff in the compound were running about the place. It was clear there was a rock fight or similar going on – lots of yelling. One of the guards appeared with blood streaming from his head. He had been walking back to work after collecting his pay and was attacked just outside. He was an easterner (lorosae).

Within minutes, the police (ie UN police) arrived and broke it up. I could see the tops of police vehicles passing by over the easily scalable fence. It was all over in 10 minutes.  When I left, I found myself between 2 police road blocks. As I was on the inside, I was asked if I was OK. They told me that they had used tear gas and rubber bullets. There were rocks all over the road and broken glass from the car or cars that unfortunately were passing at the wrong time.

I pondered just what might have happened if I had decided to leave 30 minutes earlier. However, I still remain confident that a non uniform-wearing white face is not a rock target – as long as they can see your face !

UN report released

The “Report of the United Nations Special Commission of Inquiry for Timor-Leste” was released on 17 October. I note it is dated 2 October and I think it was initially expected about 8 October but I believe the UN wanted to be prepared for any security backlash.

Although the actual release date always seemed to be a rumour to me, most of the locals seemed to be prepared for it as of Sunday. Shops started closing on Sunday and Monday was very quiet. It seems not much happened and things have almost returned to “normal” (relative to recent times).

I have yet to read the 79 page report which can be downloaded in PDF format (440 kbytes) from the the UN web site at http://www.ohchr.org/english/docs/ColReport-English.pdf and leave it up to the reader to come to a conclusion.

I still expect a bit of discomfort over the coming weeks, not just for the people who have been named (and their supporters) but also for those disappointed that that some other names did not appear in the report.

And no, there is no suggestion of a foreign-initiated coup, something I have never heard seriously mentioned here. On 16 June, I mentioned some of the possibilities doing the rounds (http://wombathole.com/dili-gence/?p=115) and maybe I will have to mark the report card on who came closest to getting it right.

Hotting up

Well, it may be hotting up at times out there in the Dili streets but for me, there’s another form of hotting up.

In my early 20s, I lived in a “group house” for a while and quite a number of very silly things happened during that period. One of them occured with my mate John when the house consisted of me, John and 2 members of the opposite sex. John and I developed a very male thing of competing over who could cook the hottest curry. Yes, I admit that beer was involved and we had a quaint “thing” about notching up the number of beers consumed on the fridge door. (I won and still have the graphical beer consumption chart specifically designed to stir up the female members of the household about our superior drinking performance ! Yeah, I know – it’s a boy thing.)

Anyway, the curry competition was quite competitive and involved both exceeding the last curry in heat and seeing who could last the longest before breaking out into an uncontrollable sweat.

This “training” has stood me in good stead but it is possible that I have met my match. I have a few acquaintances who are exponents of the constant acquisition of hot chili sauces and line their kitchen walls with any number of sauces from all over the world. I think they may also have met their match.

Soon after the destruction of the Taibesse markets, I passed by and felt obliged to buy something from the half dozen vendors (out of a hundred or so) who were valiantly trying to resume some sort of normality out of the mess. I bought some woven baskets for a US dollar and 3 small sachets of chili paste for 10 cents a sachet. Each sachet held about 2 teaspoons of chili paste in a small clear plastic bag tied with string.

I tried some of this chili paste and merely passed a teaspoon over one of these sachets and my scalp levitated from my head. I reckon a teaspoon of this stuff would give half a bottle of tequila a run for its money for sheer effect.

You can buy these 20mm chilis at the markets most of the time and often one can buy chili paste which has been bottled in re-used drink bottles (often small juice bottles). It will take a while to sample all of this sinus clearing material but someone has to do it.

Yep, it sure is a chili lovers delight here.

Some reports to watch

Today, the International Crisis Group (whatever that is) released a report called “Resolving East Timor’s Crisis”. I will get around to reading it a bit more carefully soon but basically it seems to cover a lot of the issues related to the current problems.

The report (36 page PDF document and 860kb in size) is available here at crisisgroup.org

I am not sure where it fits into the big picture as the UN report on the recent troubles is due before the end of October. This is often talked about around town as it is supposed to name names and provide a starting point for prosecution of people who have done the wrong thing (whatever that is).

Some information on this special commission of inquiry is available at reliefweb

There has been a lot of conjecture about town whether the details of the UN report will cause trouble. At the very least, there will be a lot of squirming but I would assume that all the potentially guilty parties already have a good idea of what to expect. At the same time, I am fairly certain the foreign military and police forces already know the names of those who will be named. So I think there may be a lid on any really bad stuff but one would have to expect some issues coming out of left field somewhere.

I know the day the report is released will be a good day to plan for a nice meal at home and some stiff gin and tonics just to be on the safe side.

Afternoon Sustenance

There’s nothing like a shandy on a warm afternoon and well … it is pretty warm 365 days of the year. What’s a bloke to do ?

In cooler climes, I usually place wine pretty high on my consumption agenda but wine has fallen to 3rd place behind beer and spirits. Gin and tonic has made a huge comeback in the repertoire here but the old amber nectar is hard to pass by.

And why should I be worried ? I have conclusively proven that an increase in beer consumption leads to weight loss.

Wine tends to be poorer value. Why ? Because it is often stored at ambient temperature at both supermarket and wholesale warehouse. And ambient temperature is usually around 33 degrees ! And at restaurants, no-one has caught on to the fact that serving red wine at room temperature was never intended for warm climates like here. So red wine is often served at 20+ degrees and I am sure was never meant to taste like that.

At home, we always chill our reds down to a more rational “room temperature” which I suppose is closer to 15 degrees than 30 degrees.

In any case, wine tends to be more expensive. If I use the southern Australia comparison, beer tends to be US$2-50 in bars here but can be anything from US$2-50 to US$4-50 in bars in OZ. The gin and tonics served here are huge and do the job admirably but nothing beats the domestically served variety sitting on the porch using an airport acquired duty-free gin – an essential purchase on any arrival in Dili.

As for beer, most bars have VB, Melbourne Bitter and Crown Lager from OZ. XXXX, Cascade Light, Hahn and Powers are also seen occasionally. Portugal provides Super Bock and Sagres beers (both plain and black beers). Others are Tiger (Singapore), Heineken (Netherlands), Carlsberg (Denmark), Corona (Mexico), Tsingtao (China), Asahi (Japan), San Miguel (Philippines), Kirin (Japan).

The cheapest beer in town is Indonesia’s Bintang beer which I quite like really. For masochists, the Timorese brewed Buffalo and Lion are well worth trying and then leaving alone. Both of these small breweries are now closed.

Time to eat

The Filipino “Pinoy” restaurant near the Hotel Esplanada appears to have changed hands and is now a Thai restaurant. Nothing much has changed decor-wise except the staff and the menu. A pad thai chicken can be had for US$4. Not bad but still not up to the Beach Cafe standard.

The Beach Cafe remains closed and I have been told that this is unlikely to change. But I have also been told that the Shanghai restaurant next door (currently undergoing massive renovations) will be taking on the Burmese cook (or cooks ?) from the Beach Cafe. It still looks like it is weeks if not months away and looks like accommodation will be part of the new premises.

Tiger Fuels (ie a petrol/gas station) now is doing pizzas and is also doing western-style bread making. Its all looking good so far. But large pizzas are still US$12, the going rate at Tiger, Dili Club and Castaways. Tiger is also selling Mrs Macs (imported OZ) pies which are sold from a dedicated freezer. They get a gourmet tick of approval from me.

Its probably time I went back to the Filipino burger joint south of the UN barracks. Its still there but I have tended to avoid that area given trouble around the barracks in recent weeks.

The coffee cooperative “Cooperativa Cafe Timor” is selling coffee beans and ground coffee at their premises near the ANZ bank. If you know where to go, you can also get Ensul coffee from deep in the recesses of their compound not far from Hotel Timor. It looks like you are buying from a garden shed but this is no problem. I prefer CCT coffee myself and the price tends to reflect this.

No sign of the resumption of the 2 breweries Buffalo and Lion who once brewed some very interesting beer.

Back Again

Well, the theory goes that a break away recharges batteries and provides renewed enthusiasm.  Then I try to rationalise my emails (by modem) after the break.  Apparently my biggest friend I have in the world is called “Junk” and to top off my 97% of all emails from “Junk”, the spam farms have successfully found dili-gence.  (I curse the “real money up-front” ISP who “claims” to have spam filters on my incoming mail.)
I may be forced to insist on registration for those keen enough to want to post to dili-gence.  I may even have to study up on how to reduce spam on blog sites.  Maybe I’ll get over it.
Some mates have already told me that everything has pretty much been business as usual – the odd fire, the odd rock fight, the odd canister of tear gas.  It seems I didn’t miss a thing.

The Disenchanted

Before I arrived in Dili, I had a healthy dose of sympathy for the Timorese who had been serially shafted by the Portuguese then the Indonesians.  It didn’t really give them much of a chance to get their house in order.  I never did quite believe the head of the World Bank praising TL as a shining example of how a country could pull itself together.  Nor that the UN was the vehicle bringing on that success.

Then it all came crashing down.  After a few weeks then a few months of continual turmoil, I certainly started losing that sympathetic edge.  Then I noticed the same disenchantment coming from others, then for me it was a definite trend.  A few people mentioned how they noticed that “earnest” edge was being knocked off some of those more dedicated aid/volunteer workers.

Then what convinced me it was no longer to be ignored, was the chat I had with an acquaintance who was seriously questioning with “what’s the point anymore?  … everything I have done here is back to square one … do I just re-start everything again … it will take 10 years before it will feel like progress is being made and I can’t wait that long”.

All I could say was “how was it different to before? … you were always pushing against negative forces … where would it be if you weren’t here at all?”.

Hardly inspirational but this is what holidays to Bali are for.