The burning boat

At lunchtime today, I got a call to inform me of a boat burning down in Dili harbour.  I grabbed the camera and zipped down to find a 15m long wooden vessel well and truly alight.  I took a few snaps, observed the hundreds of interested observers, the traffic schemozzle near the government buildings and eventually got bored and left.

I am told it burnt down towards the waterline and then at 3:45pm, the heavens opened for perhaps the first humungous dump of the wet season.  At 6pm I was told it was still burning.

The rumour mill says the boat was offloading smuggled diesel and an accident happened during the process.  Dili rumours are fairly notorious but usually 80% turns out to be true.

It certainly was great entertainment watching the plumes of dark black smoke (no carbon credits earnt here) rising to meet the looming storm clouds above.  The black smoke would seem to support the diesel theory.

The absence of any form of vessel capable of delivering water to put out a fire on the water was noted.  But even the land-based bombeiros (ie firemen) require a little financial incentive to attend to land-based fires.  And no, there is no marina in Dili.

Anyway, it was all better than the TV.

The 3rd Annual First Lady Cup

OK, now I have a reason to peel off that excess holiday flab (caused by increased ingestion of Super Bok and Sagres no doubt) and prepare myself for the 3rd Annual First Lady Cup.

This is a 10km fun run from the Palacio to just short of the CazBar (ie going east along the seafront) and back. Walkers have an abbreviated 5km walk which just might get them to Hotel California and back (if you care.)

Mark your card for Sunday 18 November at 8am. Just in case I perform poorly, my excuse this time (recorded in advance for efficiency) is that I do not perform well on Sunday at 8am.

An advertising flier is available here.  Will add application form when I get one myself.

The election campaign

I still have not seen a proper parliamentary election rally but now have the campaign schedule which details where each party will be doing their stuff from 27 May right through to the end of the campaign on 27 June.

As per the presidential election, most of the action is out of Dili early in the campaign but tends to concentrate back here towards the end. However, I can now mark my card if I want a little bit of light outdoor entertainment.

Today, PMD will be in Vera Cruz and tomorrow, PUN will be in Laulara, then nothing until Fretilin do Metinaro on Sunday. Then Fretilin are concentrating the rest of their campaign in and around Dili.

Interestingly, CNRT are really hammering outside of Dili and only doing one rally here at the end. In fact, many of the others are much the same. There is no doubt that Fretilin will be concentrating on Dili very hard. In a single electorate vote, concentrating on the biggest population centre makes sense from a “bang for your campaign buck” point of view.

Oecussi festival – mark your cards

The Oecussi Festival runs from 1-12 August with the main events hosted over the weekend of 3-5 August 2007 and culminating with Oecussi Day on 11 August.

During the weekend of 3rd – 5th August 2007, the main beach boulevard will be transformed into an array of art and craft markets with accompanying beach competitions, water sports, open air restaurants, traditional ceremonies, costumes, dancing and singing, nightly bonfires, fireworks and of course rock bands playing into the early hours of the morning.

This is straight from mmux.wordpress.com/2007/06/07/the-oecussi-festival
where you can find more details on what’s happening and how to get there etc. etc.

PNTL massacre memorial service today

A memorial service was held today to commemmorate one year since the massacre of the 9 PNTL (ie police) near their HQ in Dili outside the Ministry of Justice building.

A permament memorial has also been erected by the roadside opposite the Ministry as a reminder of just how dumb things got last year.

ANZAC Day ceremony

The annual ANZAC Day ceremony was held in Dili yesterday morning as it is in most places where Australians and New Zealanders can get together in numbers.  Last year, it was held at the deserted heliport but this year, the heliport is a thriving ADF (Australian Defence Force) facility.

This year it is was held on the grass verge just outside the front of Camp Phoenix – the ISF (international stabilisation force) HQ.  All Australians and New Zealanders were welcome, but it is a public event and there is nothing stopping anyone coming to observe – the main impediment being that you have to be there before dawn.

The ANZAC Day ceremony being a tribute to those who have fought for their country was quite appropriately put together by the ADF and NZDF, with speeches and prayers from several army personnel and the ambassadors of Australia and New Zealand.  The NZDF put in a fine singing performance.

Coffee and Bundaberg run was served for all guests which numbered around 300, including many Australian and New Zealand police, many of the OZ/NZ community and a small contingent of Turkish UN police.

It may have been a public holiday in OZ and NZ but just another day here in Dili (for most).

Note : ANZAC Day tends to focus on the Dardanelles campaign of the First World War where OZ and NZ troops (amongst others) fought the Turks at Gallipoli (more correctly Gelibolu).  Historically, both Australia and Turkey regard the Turkish victory as defining moments in their country’s histories.

The acid spill

Apart from the election, the biggest event lately has been the acid spill at Dili port. It has taken a few days to piece the bits together but I think it goes like this.

A container was dumped at the port (last weekend ?) containing over 20,000 litres of acid which was leaking. This resulted in closure of the port area (for about 3 days) to the general public and evacuation of surrounding areas including guests at Hotel Timor and the Kiwi soldiers from their base next door. The IDP camp between Hotel Timor and the port was asked to evacuate but they refused , claiming it was a ploy to get them out.

At one point, the nature of the acid was not certain so a conservative approach was taken. Experts from Australia were called in and confirmed it was HCl (hydrochloric acid) so the no-go zone was reduced after a couple of days.

Most of the acid leaked into the sea where it would be rendered harmless. Sea water contains salts, the main one being NaCl (ie sodium chloride) and anyone who has done school chemistry should know that HCl plus NaOH (ie sodium hydroxide) produces salt (NaCl) plus water (H2O). There are more than enough free hydroxide ions to allow the HCl to break-down. Other chemicals may not have been so friendly.

At some point, someone announced that one should not eat fish for a few days. This probably explains why a couple of guys I know in the construction industry said their workers refused to eat any fish back at their canteen. The eating recommendation was quickly reversed but too late for some.

It turned out the acid was on its way from Indonesia to Australia but when a leak was discovered, it was off-loaded in Dili. It highlights the fact that the port probably had no protocols for dealing with this sort of problem, the ship did not know how to handle it and the acid was probably stored in an unsafe manner in the container and possibly not identified correctly.

I believe the ISF (ie OZ component of the international security force) managed the clean-up.

Feel free to correct me if I got anything wrong here.

Nativity Scenes

Every year, nativity scenes pop up at this time. My impression is that they are going up a bit later this year and maybe not quite so many.

In general, families, larger family groups and small neighbourhoods will often construct a nativity scene out of local materials. They will usually have a palm leaf roof and if big enough, provide cover from the rain at this time of the year. The bigger ones are almost like bus shelters in size with the smaller ones with barely enough room for one when raining.

Last year, I promised myself I would do a photo shoot of as many as I could find this year. But the numbers of them seem down and more critically, my digital camera “pointed the toes” * about 2 weeks ago.

I hope to rectify the camera problem by early January and hope enough of the nativity scenes are still intact to make it worthwhile. I suspect the later arrival may be due to the possible targetting of nativity scenes by gangs as a way of getting at their targets. I could be wrong.


* “point the toes” = when dead and lying on one’s back, the toes are pointed upwards.

Indonesian Bazaar 23 Dec 2006

The Indonesian Embassy in Farol-Palapaso (2 blocks from the sea at Farol across the road from the fragrant canal) is hosting an Indonesian Bazaar on Saturday 23 December (10 am ?)  Clothing, handicrafts, handbags, shoes and food will be on sale. There may be music.

I am told the goods are cheap.

Racing at Tasi Tolu racecourse

It cropped up too late on my radar screen to pre-notify (see below for future meetings schedule), but this afternoon the Dili Racing Club held a race meeting at Tasi Tolu. Tasi Tolu is the place where many houses were destroyed back in May, is the location of a major F-FDTL army base and has generally not been an ideal location from a security point of view.

But it does have a racecourse and the last meeting was scheduled for May but had to be postponed. The course itself is naturally occurring compacted fine sand and is pretty hard. It is 1400 metres in length and has a quite decent railing on the inner and outer parts of the track. There is no finish post or grandstand but for the day, temporary “stands” were erected for/by sponsors with perhaps seating for 50. The track was graded and the rails painted just prior to this event.

There were no food or drink vendors apart from one or two push carts at the eastern end but I saw no-one use them. There were about 500 Timorese in attendance and about 30 expats. I suspect most expats knew nothing of this event but I accidentally came across it in a Prime Minister’s press release on Friday. There was no organised betting although I was told it was happening on the side.

There were 5 races. The races were divided pretty much by horse size, with the very small local horses running in the first 3 races, followed by 2 races with imported horses from Australia. The largest field size was 5 which is probably not far off the manageable limit given no starting stalls. The first 3 races were basically bare-back riding and I have got to say, breath-taking given the obvious danger of riding flat-out and bare-back on horses who were extremely feisty prior to the start. Stirrups and saddles were more the norm in the last 2 races with older (and heavier) jockeys doing better on the larger horses.

Most of the jockeys looked to be around 10 years old with only a couple who may have been nudging 20. Seeing a tiny kid of maybe 40kgs riding bare-back with no footwear, no helmet and no obvious safety gear is truly breath-taking.

A young girl of miniscule stature rode in race 3 and looked completely at sea when the horse was stationary as it lashed out and generally caused trouble, but once the race was underway, she looked every inch an accomplished jockey. She came a good 2nd in a 5 horse field.

The Prime Minister’s horse won a 2 horse race #4 and it was clearly a class above it’s rival, even though the win was close (and perhaps staged slightly). Winner’s prizemoney was US$1,000 – not to be sniffed at.

I can see this becoming a very popular event with the expats, particularly if they move towards providing a bit more on the refreshment side of things. Even without it, it was non-stop entertainment, even though getting a 10-year old sliver of a jockey on a fiery steed reminded me of Evel Knievel gearing up for a motorcycle jump over 20 buses. One jockey in the last race came off several hundred metres after the finish and was taken to hospital.

Meetings are of a couple of days length so the current meeting has not finished yet. Racing continues on Thursday (21/12) and Friday (22/12) with the Peace Cup run on Saturday (23/12).

The 2007 Program includes planned meetings for 20 May, 30 August and 28 November.