And now for something completely different

Recent events have pushed a few other events into the background.

Possibly my favourite restaurant in town has been the “Beach Cafe”. The food is Burmese and it is run by Burmese. Or was. In January/February, the lads renovated the establishment and it was really looking good. Everything (except the power pole out the front) hit the sweet spot with me. But now, it has been closed for a month. Some say the cook left; some say there was a fire in the kitchen; same say the owner raised the rent ferociously after the renovations. One day I will find out why.

On the Saturday following the initial riots, the Central Maritime Hotel left Dili. Normally, this would be a momentous event but it passed by with little comment.

The Central Maritime Hotel was a floating hotel (ie a converted ship) seemingly a permanent fixture down at the waterfront. It arrived from Rangoon to provide accommodation when the UN presence was at its peak here. It had 127 rooms and bars etc. but as the UN numbers fell, so did the bottom line and it has remained unused for a couple of years now.

It has gone off to Singapore for a minor re-fit prior to heading off to the Black Sea for oil workers accommodation. But the waterfront sure feels kind of nude now.

Freshly Ground

I finally managed to obtain freshly ground coffee beans today. I suspect this is the first time I have achieved one of my main caffeine-induced aims. I am hooking into the first brew right now and instantly notice several things compared to previous batches of beans.

Firstly, this time, I supposedly have premium grade arabica beans from a medium roast. The consistency of the beans is noticeable compared to previous batches. There is also a distinct difference in the operation of the grinder and the final result. The colour and size of the grind is much more consistent. And most significant of all, a huge crema (ie the frothy bit floating on top). And the taste is noticeably different also.

These beans are “Cafe Timor” beans from the “Cooperativa Cafe Timor” and are certified organic arabica beans made from the uniquely Timorese “Hibrido de Timor”, a hybrid bean found only in Timor.

Having established the supply chain, freshly roasted and ground is the only way now.

Pig Races

On a weekend in Dili, there are no football games (apart from a few local games on dirt), no sailing regattas, no car races, no horse races, no squash courts, no bowls, no rowing, no track meets, no cycling velodromes, no wineries, no relaxing Sunday drives and no tea and scones in the hills.

But every now and then, there is pig racing. For a bit of a hoot, every month or so, the Monkey Bar puts on pig racing. Modelled on the greyhounds with four starting gates and a short 20m track, the four porkers dressed in racing numbers make the dash after a bowl of swill carried by a nimble hare.

Beers are consumed, no money changes hands and it sure is different.

St.Patricks Day

Three pain killers, coffee, a shower, food, exercise, more coffee and still the headache remains.

Yesterday was St.Patricks Day and while it is a great day for the Irish, it is also a great day for the Guinness drinker here in Dili. The usual Guinness available in the shops is made in Malaysia and I am afraid it bears little resemblance to Guinness at all.

By absolute chance, I came across news that the Irish Embassy had shipped in a special consignment of genuine Irish Guinness in cans with a widget. Next mission was to get an invite to St.Pats Day as I had absolutely no doubt where that consignment was going to end up.

As Dili is so small, its actually not that hard to arrange these things but I felt a little out of place initially. It didn’t take long to work out that half of Dili had been invited.

Now when you have been pining for a Guinness for a while and the genuine article is put before your eyes (not even the Australian-made version) and the Irish government are paying, well, you take your chances, don’t you ?

I managed 6 pints of the good stuff, talked the leg off a chair, danced like Fred Astaire and possibly made some new acquaintances. But I blame the 2 glasses of red wine after all that for the headache this morning.

Coffee, what’s the drill

You would think that as coffee is Timor-Leste’s main export after Timor Sea petroleum, that the place is teeming with the stuff. Not exactly the case, really.

So when I first arrive, I go to the supermarket. Lavazza yep, numerous vacuum-packed imported coffees and packets of pre-ground Indonesian-style coffee. For some reason, I fail to be attracted by 1kg packets of talcum powder-like coffee of unknown age.

For weeks, I tried to find evidence of a roastery where I might get freshly roasted beans. Nope. There are a couple of coffee roasteries down near the airport but they try to sell you stuff off the shelf. I guess fresh stuff could be arranged but the word is that the airport roasteries get the low quality cast-off beans from the big exporters, who dominate the market.

But my last lot was 1kg of roasted and plastic packed roasted arabica beans for UD2-50 from one of the airport roasteries. Before that I tried a vacuum pack of Cafe Timor ground beans, but they were of the talcum powder fine grind and not to my taste. Before that was the vacuum pack of Delta coffee which is Timorese beans processed in Portugal and re-imported back here. Delta wasn’t bad.

But before that, an acquaintance provided 1kg of freshly roasted beans from an undisclosed source that he uses to supply the freshly roasted article. I haven’t seen him since but I will definitely get onto it.

Until I got here, I drank coffee with milk but I have given up. I am afraid all milk here is of the long-life variety and while it seems OK for use when cold, it performs poorly in tea or coffee. The taste is all wrong.

Food Safety 201

Having had a second visit to the doc recently re. my never-ending sore throat, I left with his final touching words “don’t worry, you’ll be back”. What he was referring to was bowel problems.

I was speaking to the owner and chef of one of the expat oriented bar/restaurants recently and he suddenly said “they will kill some one”. I replied “who?”.

He mentioned the main 2 supermarkets which are the central shopping points for the vast majority of the expat community. He specifically mentioned the well-known fact that most foreign foodstuffs were either approaching or past their use-by dates. He singled out the frozen foods as the worst culprits, citing use-by dates, the temperature of the freezers and the even nastier habit of thawing and re-freezing of these items. I also suspect a lot of the food lines have been market failures somewhere else and have been dumped. I also suspect production runs of sub-standard goods or labeling errors etc. to be amongst it all as well.

I must admit that I knew all this prior to arriving and was worried but you tend to forget about it after a while. Most of the expat bar/restaurants struggle to get staff to adopt basic food hygiene standards in food handling. You occassionally cross your fingers and eat out at a more local restaurant (usually run by Indonesians, Chinese, Indians, …)

You always hear stories about so-and-so is sick after eating at “…..” restaurant 2 days ago.

Lets not even mention those who have come down with malaria or dengue fever. A close acquaintance has been bed-ridden for 5 days now and dengue is suspected.

But the doctor was right, like everyone else, I’ll be back.

Black Beers and Stouts

I regard myself as a bit of a connoisseur of black beers and stouts and even brew my own on the odd occasion. I even brought my beer brewing gear here plus ingredients.

I had no idea what to expect but actually there is a fairly reasonable supply of the black stuff.

Firstly, the bad news. Yes, there is Guinness in 330 ml cans. It is made in Malaysia. It is 100% total crap and an embarrassment to the Guinness company. There is also ABC Stout which tastes very close to the above-mentioned Guinness.

Secondly, the average news. Carlsberg have Danish Royal Stout. Also brewed in Malaysia. Maybe I am just kidding myself that it is better than the 2 above. But it did seem better.

And the best news. The Portuguese do pretty good black beers. Both the Sagres Black Beer and Super Bock Stout are quite nice drinks. One day, I will do a one-on-one taste test and produce the final analysis.

Of course, I forgot the un-named helicopter company who brew their own beers and stouts in what is an absolutely incredible setup that is truly astounding. Of course, purely for personal consumption only.

One week in the house

Life is actually quite a bit different now. Living in a house now means access to all that stuff I waved goodbye to 6 months ago. But apart from footwear, I am still wearing the same old clothes I have been rotating for months.

It means no more hotel breakfasts and it means buying food in order to have it to eat it. The first shock is the financial one when you spend US$400 on food and end up with … well, not very much. And I had already pretty much given up on any snack foods. I had also thought I had put on weight but I actually sent over a set of scales and to my amazement, I am 5 kgs lighter than 6 months ago.

Note to file : I have to start local market shopping rather than this expat supermarket stuff.

To be honest, I have been suffering from some unknown health problem of late (presumably bacterial infection), but must wait until the doctor gets back from his 2 weeks out of the country. Perhaps this is the real reason for the weight loss (or the self-prescribed anti-biotics).

Back to the house. I guess you have to expect teething problems when everything is new, but the wooden doors are cracking, there have been electrical problems, shoddy plumbing, no water pressure, cockroaches, really bad rising damp in the walls and we still lack a bathroom basin and gas cooker. When we decide not to eat out, we use the temporary gas cooker on the front porch. And we are still waiting on some key furniture deliveries for the living areas.

As I type, there is not one drop of water emerging from any tap. The tank is full, the pump is on. I don’t know. But one day, it will be sorted.

It has rained the last few days and after this, the mosquitos have come out in force around the house. It is almost impossible to remain unbitten unless you become a walking insecticide vehicle. But there are enough local stories of malaria and dengue fever to convince you that you just have to do it.

If you are into organics and the non-use of pesticides, me thinks you will not survive here. It is pretty difficult trying to impress with the latest eau de cologne, perfume or macho deodorant when you must by necessity smell like a roach bomb (ie insect spray).

Yogurt

When it comes to supplies of imported items often bought by expats in Dili, there is one key item that defines the state of play with these supplies. Yogurt.

Some people ask if one has seen any yogurt in any of the supermarkets. At the Hotel Dili, the sign would read at breakfast time, “No yogurt due to no stock at the supermarket”. At the Hotel Timor, there would be no sign and no yogurt at all.

There has been no yogurt for around 10 days until a couple of days ago. So you know the boat has just come in and customs have cleared it. But there has been some enormous delays at customs over the last 2 weeks and I don’t know why.

But at least yogurt is back.

Just How Expensive is it ?

Dili can get mighty expensive for the typical expat. Unlike many other major cities in Asia, Dili does not really have a thriving local economy that drives provision of goods and services at competitive prices.

Virtually all packaged goods are imported. A lot comes from Indonesia and China but for the usual expat needs, it mostly comes from Australia. And the expat market is pretty small, just like the number of well-heeled Timorese who could regularly afford this stuff.

The astute expat shopper can find plenty of substitute goods from Chinese and Indonesian sources if you try hard, and it can take a lot of time so most expats stick to a couple of reasonably reliable expat oriented supermarkets.

Housing runs the same way. If you really want air-conditioning, satellite TV, 24 hour electricity (ie have a generator), it will cost.

ECA International did a survey in August 2005 and produced expat cost-of-living rankings for Asian cities. Their top 10 went like this :

1 Tokyo
2 Yokohama
3 Kobe
4 Seoul
5 Macau
6 HongKong
7 Osaka
8 Dili
9 Singapore
10 Beijing

And for all that, you get no traffic lights (in the whole country), no cinema, no theatre, no library (of any significance), little sporting infrastructure, no fine dining at all, little to buy in the shops and crap Guinness.

But you also get “slow living”, less spending, perhaps more interacting, a 20 minute cycle trip east to west and NO western suburbia.